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Unique independent bookstores offer rare and treasured tomes
to bookish travelers

While there is a certain joy in unwrapping a book that’s arrived carefully bundled at your door after an exhausting Internet search, nothing beats the satisfaction of ambling along the shelves of a unique bookshop — with no specific volume in mind — until you unearth some literary treasure. And whether it’s a well-used copy of Mrs. Beeton’s Book of Household Management, originally published in 1861, or a nostalgic edition of The Velveteen Rabbit that your heart secretly desires, there are still plenty of independent shops around the world serving up terrific tomes, valuable volumes, and just plain fun reads.

1

Portland, Ore.: Set aside a day or more to browse Powell’s City of Books or else you’re sure to endure a bit of anxiety about seeing it all and still fitting in the daily roster of readings and events. The 68,000-square-foot main store (yes, you read that correctly) stocks used, new, and antiquarian books in 3,450 different categories. Wandering the stacks can feel a bit like navigating a sky-high hedge maze, but first-time visitors need not worry about getting lost — the booksellers are equal parts tour guide and literary guide, and it’s clear that they love to help people in both capacities (1005 W. Burnside, 503.228.4651; powells.com). For book lovers who cannot live by Powell’s alone, Portland offers much more, from readings at local libraries to the much-loved Literary Arts lecture series (literary-arts.org). Schedule your Portland bookbuying adventure during the city’s annual Wordstock book festival in November (wordstockfestival.com) for a full-on literary immersion experience.

2

Boston: The sheer number of colleges and universities in the Boston area casts a bookish vibe over the entire city. One of the area’s oldest literary haunts is the Brattle Bookshop, established in 1825 (9 West St., 617.542.0210; brattlebookshop.com). The store’s owners — who double as appraisers on PBS’ Antiques Roadshow — buy from estates and other sources to gather the goods for their antiquarian selection. Today there may be a set of books on magic, while tomorrow it could be a collection of volumes on manners or boat building. The constantly revolving stock makes for a dedicated group of regulars — one actually calls in sick to the store when he’s unable to make his daily trip. The shop is best summed up through the inscription on a photo of Houdini that co-owner Ken Gloss keeps above his desk: “My brain is the key that sets me free.”

3

Toronto: When asked to name one of the city’s best antiquarian booksellers, one Toronto native — a writer of Canadian guidebooks — immediately suggests David Mason Books (366 Adelaide St. West, 416.598.1015; davidmasonbooks.com). This store is a gem because it’s a far cry from the kind of musty spot many people associate with antiquarian books. Though the 60,000 to 70,000 volumes in stock cover a wide range of topics, readers in search of British and American literature, first editions, science, history, and travel writing from the 18th through 20th centuries will be especially pleased. The best thing about shopping for books in Toronto? Nobody will bat an eye if you spend your entire trip going from bookstore to café to bookstore — this is a true reading (and coffee-drinking) town.

4

New York: Locals have mourned many a dearly departed bookshop, but there are still plenty of bookish treasures to be found in Manhattan. The remainder tables outside the more-than-just-biography-selling Biography Bookshop (212.807.8655) are a well-priced gift from the literary gods. And if you’re as much foodie as reader, a stop at Joanne Hendricks’ shop (488 Greenwich St., 212.226.5731; joannehendrickscookbooks.com) is a must. The 12-year-old store is dedicated to cookbooks and books about food and drink. Just make sure you call before you get there; it’s a one-person operation, and if Hendricks is late returning from errands, the door will be locked.

5

Athens: What better place to establish an arcade of bookshops — each selling the wares of one to four Greek publishers — than the site of a legendary teacher’s training college? The shops at the Stoa Vivliou (Book Arcade) are housed in Athens’ neoclassical Arsakeio Megaron building, which also plays host to the State Council and a theater. Grab a few books and a hearty cup of Greek coffee before taking a seat in the arcade. Then, ponder the knowledge you’re gaining, just as Aristotle did so long ago. stoabibliou.gr

6

Paris: Shakespeare and Company (37 Rue de la Bucherie, 33.01.4325.4093; shakespeareco.org) is far more than a bookstore. It’s a center for literary events, and even plays hotel to aspiring authors who can’t afford housing in the City of Lights. Though the store is steeped in literary history — Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald were both regulars — its dedication to contemporary literature is impressive as well. So is its Antiquarian Shop. It’s truly a something-for-everyone kind of place, and for readers lucky enough to step through the door, love at first sight is a guarantee.

7

Quito: There’s no need to pack a stack of books to pass your downtime in Quito or help you get navigate the rest of Ecuador. There are loads of used English-language books to unearth at Confederate Books (Calama 410 y Juan Leon Mara, 593.2.2.527.890; confederatebooks.com). The store, owned by a Chicagoan, also serves as a great home base for English speakers visiting the city. With an emphasis on stocking titles about Latin America, Confederate can also provide all the historical context you could ask for your travels.

8

Houston: If mystery is on your mind, then off to Houston you should go. There, Murder by the Book — one of the city’s last remaining independent bookstores — has been entertaining sleuthing fans for 27 years. While Murder continues to stock new mysteries by publishers big and small, it also serves up plenty of first and signed editions. To battle the big bookstore competition on pricing, owner Martha Farrington has made sure her store offers something unique for customers — including a never-ending stream of author and book group events (2342 Bissonnet St., 713.524.8597; murderbooks.com). Of course, life does go beyond sweet mysteries, so Farrington also recommends popping into Brazos Bookstore, an independent literary bookshop down the street (2421 Bissonnet St., 713.523.0701; brazos.booksense.com).

Getting there: All the destinations covered in "Go To Town" can be reached by flying Continental. To book your vacation, visit Contiental Airlines Vacations at covacations.com


Illustration: Phil