Tequila!

In Cancún, the local specialty should be sampled slowly and deliberately

Rule no. 1 when you want to quench your thirst in Cancún: don’t order a Hurricane, the touristy rum and passion fruit cocktail born in New Orleans’ French Quarter. This beachfront playground on Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula is still weathering the wrath of Wilma — which struck in 2005 — and just the word sends shivers. Rule No. 2: for luscious libations in an exotic setting and a soothing view of turquoise waters, slip into the new Tequila Collection bar at the Presidente InterContinental Cancún Resort (52.998.848.8700; ichotelsgroup.com). Your blood pressure will drop 20 points.

Cancún, you see, has multiple personalities. One is a throbbing Babylon for college spring breakers who flood into frenetic chain cantinas such as Margaritaville, Carlos ’n’ Charlie’s, Señor Frog’s, and other drinking dens where you may pay a cover charge at the door for all you can drink. Another is a relaxing resort town. My Cancún of choice is far from the crazed crowds, a place where I can give my sanity and synapses a rest and find a creative cocktailian in a soothing setting.

Juan Lopez, mixologist at the Tequila Collection, is a welcoming spirit who suggests a cocktail that sounds more gringo than south-of-the-border authentic. Called a Chocolate Tequila, it dazzles the taste buds with 2 ounces of El Jimador Reposado tequila, 1 ounce of crème de cacao, and a dash of Hershey’s chocolate syrup, stirred and served straight up in a stemmed glass topped with a cherry ($8). Another original is the Mayan Tequila: 2 ounces of El Jimador, 1 ounce of apricot liqueur, and a dash of Ixtabentun, a distilled liquor from Mexico ($8).

Essentially, these cocktails sate the sensory deprived; I consider them froufrou, faux martinis mixed with the oldest distilled spirit in North America. (Tequila was first fermented in the 16th century in the town of Tequila, near Jalisco, at the foot of a dormant volcano also called Tequila.) If you want something more traditional, Lopez will whip you up an ice-cold, desert-dry tequila martini using Herradura Silver (my favorite), a miserly drop of vermouth, and an olive or twist ($8). Sip slowly.

The Tequila Collection lives up to its billing: Lopez says he’s surrounded by 900 bottles — 250 different brands and every age, strength, style, or smoothness you could want for caressing your palate. Be ready to pony up plenty of pesos for the rarest of pleasures. A shot of Jose Cuervo Reserva de la Familia starts at $80. Entertaining friends and feeling flush? The bottle is $800.

Savoring a fine tequila is a practiced art. Just don’t practice the art too much at one sitting. “Americans really don’t understand fine tequilas,” says Lopez. “They make the mistake of drinking it too fast. You should sip fine tequila straight, slow, and neat, like a rare cognac or a very fine wine.”

I ask him if the mid-’70s frat house ritual of knocking back an ounce of tequila, licking salt off the web of your hand, and sucking a lime is still popular. “Sure, people still do salt and lime chasers. But never do it with a premium tequila,” he says. “It’s a waste.” Corona is available on tap ($4), while the chiller holds Dos Equis and Yucatán-brewed Modelo. (Pacifico is coming, Lopez says.) The house wines from Mexico are $7 a glass, with better wines offered at higher prices. There is a happy hour — that’s singular, not plural — between 7 p.m. and 8 p.m. when Dos Equis beer and well drinks are two for one. From 8 to 10 p.m., live music, heavy on the salsa, fills the room. But no dancing, please.

Getting there: Continental offers daily nonstop service to Cancún from its hubs in Houston, New York/Newark, and Cleveland.

This month Continental Sommelier David Gordon, who lends his award-winning expertise to New York’s Tribeca Grill and other restaurants, recommends three full-bodied winter reds.

Neal Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2004, $45
Produced using organically grown grapes from a superb vintage, this full-bodied wine with ripe cassis and plum flavors and a touch of minerality is drinkable now and will improve with age.

Gramercy Cellars Syrah, Walla Walla Valley 2005, $40
The first release of Syrah from Gramercy Cellars in Washington state, founded by master sommelier Greg Harrington, is an elegant wine balanced with blackberry fruit flavors and a touch of smoke and earth. This is an excellent wine to enjoy with hearty braised meats while sitting by a warm fireplace.

Charvin Châteauneuf du Pape, Rhône 2005, $60
Try and latch onto a bottle of this ripe and concentrated blend of Grenache and Syrah from the great traditional Rhône producer Charvin, especially the superb 2005 vintage. Powerful and rich, with kirsch and licorice flavors that will complement full-flavored meats.