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The Many Faces of Mexico

There’s a setting to suit every interest

Think Mexico and your mind may conjure up visions of sombreros, frosty margaritas, spicy food, and sun-kissed coastline. And indeed, all that is a part of Mexico. But there’s so much more. Mexico is a land of many faces and moods, a country steeped in ancient traditions and peppered with Spanish colonial customs. It is a nation of scintillating cities, historic towns, mysterious jungles cushioning lost civilizations, and spectacular beaches.

Mexico is home to 27 Unesco World Heritage sites, the most in the Americas and eighth most of any country. Among them are Mexico City (with its floating gardens of Xochimilco), the pyramids of Teotihuacán and Chichén Itzá, and the historic downtown areas of Guanajuato, Morelia, and Queretaro.

Mexico’s illustrious past may call to history buffs, but its diverse offerings will also tempt gourmets, shoppers, and anyone interested in savoring the flavor of an exotic country.

National Cathedral and Constitution Plaza in Mexico City
National Cathedral and Constitution Plaza in Mexico City

Conquistadores and Cafés
in Mexico City

“Something old, something new” best describes the former hub of the Aztec empire. The ancient city of Tenochtitlán has morphed into one of North America’s most sophisticated and modern capitals since its discovery in 1519 by Spanish conquistadores.

Tucked inside convents, cloisters, and former palaces are a host of museums filled with archaeological treasures and exquisite works of art. Sleek skyscrapers, aristocratic mansions, and cozy cafés tucked in alongside the rubble of Aztec palaces and pyramids in the Zócalo — the city’s main square — highlight the Centro Histórico. Here stood the Halls of Moctezuma and the Templo Mayor, once the holiest shrine of the Aztec empire. Today’s visitors can explore the Palacio Nacional. Originally the home of Hernán Cortés, the conquistador who became the territory’s first Spanish governor, the Palacio Nacional is now Mexico’s presidential residence and also home to a collection of priceless Diego Rivera murals. Also nearby are the baroque Catedral Metropolitana — the largest cathedral in Latin America — and the ruins of the ancient Aztec center.

Chapultepec Park, formerly a hunting ground belonging to Aztec nobles, is a microcosm of the best of Mexico City. The area offers several outstanding museums, including the world-renowned Museum of Anthropology, as well as an amusement park, several lakes, Chapultepec Castle (former home of the ill-fated Emperor Maximilian), a world-class zoo, and several fine restaurants. Truly, something for everyone.

sculpture

Artistic Grace

In the southern end of Mexico City, you’ll find the colonial enclaves of San Ángel and Coyoacán. Once separate villages on the city’s outskirts, today they are physically part of the nation’s capital but present a much different personality. Narrow cobblestone streets twist and turn through mazes of high-walled Spanish colonial residences and open onto small parks and plazas adorned with graceful fountains.

The Diego Rivera Studio (in San Ángel) and the Frida Kahlo Museum (in Coyoacán) both provide a glimpse into the lives of two of Mexico’s most famous artists. The Dolores Olmedo Museum displays an outstanding collection of works by Rivera and Kahlo in a magnificent 18th-century hacienda.

Shopping for the Chic

Shopping is so varied that even the most blasé traveler is unlikely to return home empty-handed. Though handicrafts from all corners of Mexico are displayed in the shops and markets of the nation’s capital, Mexico City is also replete with famous-name boutiques located in chic shopping districts and sleek malls.

One of the best shopping areas is posh Polanco, a residential and commercial district located just north of Chapultepec Park. It is lined with elegant malls, trendy restaurants, and chic shops such as Louis Vuitton, Ermenegildo Zegna, Hermès, and Cartier. The ultramodern Perisur and Santa Fe malls brim with yet more international boutiques, art galleries, antique shops, and jewelry designers. Meanwhile, outstanding crafts can be found at La Ciudadela and, on Saturdays, the Bazar Sábado.

Life Preserved in Jalisco

Immortalized in Mexican ballads as a land of mariachis, cowboys, and tequila, the state of Jalisco is home to the renowned beach resort of Puerto Vallarta. Guadalajara, Jalisco’s cosmopolitan capital, embraces the essence of traditional Mexican culture while showcasing sophistication, fine cuisine, and shopping galore. It boasts the largest enclosed handicraft shop in Latin America, and suburbs Tlaquepaque and Tonalá are veritable “shop till you drop” locales.

Despite the colonial splendor, which reveals itself in ornate buildings, magnificent churches, and fountain-adorned promenades, Guadalajara has become a thriving modern metropolis — the country’s second largest, behind Mexico City. Yet it is also a place where traditions and customs are passionately preserved. Entertainment ranges from the traditional Ballet Folclórico at the Teatro Degollado to art exhibits at the Instituto Cultural Cabañas to strolling troubadours who croon old songs at the Plazuela de los Mariachis.

National Cathedral and Constitution Plaza in Mexico City
The view across the rooftop of the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Puerto Vallarta

Hotels run the gamut from quaint colonial inns snuggled in historic buildings to moderately priced family-style hotels to large chains, most of which are located on or near Avenida López Mateos Sur, a 10-mile strip that extends from the Minerva Fountain to the Plaza del Sol shopping center. Among the best known are Presidente InterContinental, Camino Real, Crowne Plaza, and the Guadalajara Expo Hilton.

Once a sleepy fishing village, and still a charming beach resort, Puerto Vallarta beckons with soft beaches along a 28-mile curve on the Bahia de Banderas. Despite its growth, Puerto Vallarta has managed to maintain its colonial charm with cobblestone streets and the ornate Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe, whose impressive baroque crown serves as the town’s famous landmark.

Popular lodgings here include the deluxe, all-inclusive Casa Velas Hotel Boutique on the Marina Vallarta Golf Course, the Westin Resort and Spa, and the Marriott CasaMagna.

Archeological Escapades in Quintana Roo

A fascinating mini-world of various moods, the state of Quintana Roo showcases ancient civilizations and modern luxury. After exploring the mysteries of the ancient Mayan civilizations in archaeological sites like Tulum and Chichén Itzá, visitors can enjoy the sybaritic luxury of a Caribbean beach resort along the 100-mile stretch known as the Riviera Maya. Cancún and the more intimate island paradise of Cozumel are also nearby.

Visitors to Xel-Há endorse it as the greatest natural aquarium in the world. The chain of coves, lagoons, and cenotes ringed by thick jungle provides a perfect respite for lovers of the wet and wild. The waters are calm and crystal clear, a mix of ocean and freshwater springs. The fish are friendly — and abundant — and you’re allowed to snorkel alongside them or float down the waterways in oversized inner tubes.

Playa del Carmen has come a long way since its start as a sleepy fishing village. Once the embarkation point for the sacred island of Cozumel, today it is one of the fastest-growing communities in Mexico and considered the heart of the Riviera Maya.

Hotel options on the Riviera Maya run the gamut from all-inclusive resorts such as the posh Paradisus Riviera Cancún to the magnificent Fairmont Mayakoba to boutique treasures like the Paraíso de la Bonita Resort & Thalasso, Esencia, and Deseo.

Accessible by plane and by ferry from the mainland, Cozumel boasts abundant marine life, fascinating limestone caves and tunnels, and a colorful reef system that includes rare black coral. Beaches are equally exquisite, from long stretches of golden sand on the west coast to white-powder shoreline and rock-strewn stretches on the east coast. Lodging in Cozumel ranges from internationally recognized hotels and all-inclusive resorts to oceanfront villas and beachside bungalows.

Days and Nights in Cancún

Cancún, just north of the Riviera Maya, has all the advantages of that region, and more. The main difference is that while the Riviera is more subdued, when night falls, Cancún comes alive, with trendy clubs such as Coco Bongo and Dady’O springing into frenetic action. A more intimate atmosphere can be found at El Ruedo, where locals hang out.

International dining choices in this area are many: Puerto Madero for Argentinean fare and romantic dining day or night, Hanaichi for Japanese, and Lorenzillo’s for fresh seafood.

Leading the list of stellar resorts are Fiesta Americana Grand Coral Beach, JW Marriott Cancún Resort & Spa, and the Ritz-Carlton. For a more intimate experience, the Avalon Baccara Cancún is an excellent choice.

The Active World of Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo

On Mexico’s surf-splashed Pacific coast, the twin resorts of Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo, though only four miles apart, are complete opposites. Yet the different attractions blend beautifully for a beach-plus vacation.

“Zihua” has remained relatively untouched somehow, its cobblestone streets, small boutiques, and markets intact. Meanwhile, Ixtapa boasts a glamorous marina, fancy docks, world-class golf courses, shopping centers, and hotels. Nearby beaches like La Ropa and Playa Linda are ideal for waterskiing and windsurfing, while Las Gatas and Isla Ixtapa are good places for snorkeling.

The waters of Zihuatanejo Bay have long been fertile fishing grounds for a variety of gamefish, drawing anglers from around the world for the annual Sailfish Tournament. Landlubbers can enjoy golf, tennis, horseback riding, and easy adventure tours. Top hotels in Ixtapa include Presidente InterContinental and Las Brisas Ixtapa. In Zihua, La Casa Que Canta and Villa del Sol are renowned.

Four hours from Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo by car, Acapulco, once the pot of gold at the end of the Mexican rainbow, remains one of the country’s sexiest destinations, drawing a host of glitterati to its deluxe hotels, popular restaurants, and scintillating nightspots. Megaresorts such as the Fairmont Acapulco Princess, the Fairmont Pierre Marquéz, the Hyatt Regency, and the exclusive Las Brisas are perennial favorites.

Outdoor Adventure in Baja California Sur

Think of Baja and think “outdoor adventure” in a region of diverse landscapes with stunning narrow canyons, hot spring lakes, majestic mountain ranges, and the Sierra La Laguna Biosphere Reserve, with its lush vegetation and endemic fauna.

Church of Our Lady of Guadalup
A kayaker takes a break at El Arco, at the southern tip of Land’s End in Cabo San Lucas.

Add to that near-perfect weather, beautiful beaches, and breathtaking scenery and you will understand why Baja is so popular.

San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas (collectively known as Los Cabos) and the 17 miles between them known as El Corridor are studded with luxury hotels, golf courses, restaurants, bistros, and boutiques. While San José tends to be more subdued, Cabo is frenetic.

Whale watching, scuba diving, surfing, and snorkeling rival golfing and sportfishing as major attractions. Los Cabos is often called the “marlin capital of the world.” For nature lovers, there are tours to Desert Park Natural Reserve on all-terrain vehicles that take you into the desert and 2,000 feet up into the mountains, through canyons and arroyos, to natural springs.

Boat tours go to El Arco, a distinctive rock arch that sits at the tip of Land’s End in Cabo San Lucas, where the Pacific Ocean meets the Sea of Cortez. It is Los Cabos’ signature geographic landmark.

The chic Marquis Los Cabos Resort & Spa, a member of Leading Hotels of the World, recently debuted a 70-foot Turkish schooner for day excursions and wedding ceremonies, with overnights for the bride, groom, and guests. The ship, La Novia Mia, delivers the same signature service as the Marquis, but on sea, with a chef and Marquis butlers in attendance.

Pueblo Bonito Pacifica Holistic Retreat & Spa is a luxury resort in Cabo Pacifica focusing on wellness and relaxation. Accommodations reflect the resort’s motif of luxury without indulgence and are concise and minimally dressed, featuring the finest natural materials, Zen-inspired amenities, and invigorating ocean views.

La Paz, capital of Baja California Sur, has become one of Baja’s ecotourism centers, with a wide variety of excursions conducted by professionals dedicated to showing off local attractions while preserving the environment.

Seahorse Statue

The Sea of Cortez was called the “world’s aquarium” by Jacques Cousteau and is famous the world over for its biodiversity. With a multitude of finback and blue whales, dolphins, sea lions, and exotic fish plying the waters, it offers countless possibilities for ecotourism activities.

Loreto’s climate and secluded location make it an ideal vacation spot for total rest and relaxation. It’s the biggest marina park in Mexico, and major attractions include beaches, protected marine life, and semi-desert niches that are home to a number of endangered species. Loreto also offers outdoor activities including whale watching and water sports. And visitors can explore colonial missions and magnificent cave paintings.

Loreto Bay Company is currently building the largest sustainable housing resort in North America in the small seaside village of Loreto Bay. The area is on the verge of becoming a world-class destination, with permanent homes, vacation homes, luxury resorts, golf, and tennis — all in the spot where the locals say “the mountains come to swim.”

Michelle da Silva Richmond


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Photographs: Courtesy of Loreto Bay (mountains); Courtesy of Marquis Los Cabos Resort (building); Neil Setchfield/Getty Images (face); Michael Lewis/Getty Images (beach umbrellas) Randy Faris/Corbis (mexico); Kenneth Garrett/Getty Images (sculpture)

 
©2007 The Pohly Company
Custom Publishing Division

 
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