ALMOST EVERY EVENING, CHEF DAVID DUKEHART indulges in one of his favorite activities, taking a break from the kitchen to walk around the dining room and visit with guests at Brenner’s Steakhouse (10911 Katy Freeway, 713.465.2901). They talk about the food as well as the history of the restaurant. “When people tell me they’ve been eating here since I was a child, or even before I was born, that means something,” the chef says. “For me to be able to help carry on this Houston tradition feels pretty important.”
Dukehart marked his first year with Brenner’s around the same time the restaurant celebrated its 70th anniversary. Longtime regulars appreciate how traditions have been preserved over the years. Recent renovations safeguarded the restaurant’s warm, family atmosphere while adding additional seating for 100 and a gazebo for special events. Another preserved tradition is the German potatoes. “This is my favorite thing to replicate because the guests really hold us to this one. It’s a simple recipe, yet complicated when you focus on reproducing it exactly.”
Dukehart starts with whole potatoes, steamed and sliced into quarter-inch medallions, pan-fried golden brown, and tossed with a precise blend of caramelized onions, salt, and pepper. “The potatoes have been the same since Mrs. Brenner owned the restaurant,” he says.
While carrying on tradition, Dukehart also has the freedom to feature something new every night. “Fish features are my favorite because of the abundance of fresh local seafood and the opportunity to bring in contrasting flavors, something important I learned at the Atlantic Cape Culinary Academy,” the chef says. “I do a pan-seared halibut with what I call fire-roasted jalapeño sweet potato puree. This blend produces a good contrast of flavors in the mouth.”
One of his other favorites is a frequent special: Chilean sea bass with tomato basil risotto and lobster demi-glace. “The creaminess of tomato basil goes really well with the tang of lobster or shrimp.”
Dukehart began creating some of his most popular recipes while working as assistant restaurant chef at the Showboat Hotel and Casino in Atlantic City; at 23, he was the youngest chef on the property to hold that title. But the chance to join a Houston institution and live in the community where he grew up was irresistible. As Dukehart says, “To be part of a restaurant that’s been around since 1936, that’s amazing. And I have the excitement of being in this kitchen every day.”
— Ann S. Boor
»1. Américas This award-winning Uptown/Galleria-area restaurant features a menu crafted from the foods and cooking techniques of North, Central, and South America. 1800 Post Oak Blvd., 713.961.1492
»2. BANK Jean-Georges Remarkably creative New American cuisine served up in a showplace setting in the lobby of Hotel Icon. 220 Main St., 832.667.4470
»3. Brennan’s of Houston The flavors of Creole blended with Texas touches. With a reservation, guests can dine at the chef’s kitchen table. 3300 Smith St., 713.522.9711
»4. Cadillac Bar This local legend is known for its festive atmosphere and signature items including Cancún enchiladas, flautas, and the full-pound Cadillac Burrito. 1802 Shepherd Dr., 713.862.2020
»5. Grotto Satisfy your craving for pasta with one of the special dishes on the constantly evolving menu, with pasta that’s homemade on the premises. 4715 Westheimer Road, 713.622.3663
— A.S.B.
