Higher Ground
Looking down upon Lisbon, Portugal, from a great height, the north-to-south-running commercial street known as Rua da Madalena appears to divide the main section of this atmospheric, ancient city built on seven hills (each with a castle, church, or stone lookout on top) between order and chaos.
To the west, the downtown Baixa district spreads out in a perfect urban grid. Art nouveau structures gather along wide, tree-lined avenues named for trades such as goldsmithing and shoemaking, which occupied the neighborhood when it was laid out following the earthquake of 1755. Baixa stretches from the Tagus River and the grand arcaded 18th-century buildings of the Praça do Comércio at its southern tip to lively Rossio Square at the northern end. At the edge of the square, elegant shoppers, nattily dressed businessmen, and tourists of every ilk shoulder up to A Ginjinha, an outdoor stand-up bar serving a local cherry liqueur for one euro per shot. To get an elevated view of Baixa, climb aboard the Elevador de Santa Justa, one of several such lifts built to aid in climbing the city’s hills.
To the east of Rua da Madalena the view devolves into disorder — not just horizontally, but vertically. The castle hill ascends through a tangle of ramparts, Moorish palaces, and buildings of widely varying architectural pedigree. The hilltop castle itself (Castelo de Sao Jorge) was constructed by the Visigoths in the fifth century. In the 12th century, it served as a royal residence. Recently it’s been restored as a park, with several cafés and superb views of the city and the river. Only from this vantage point does the city “plan” (such as it is) make any sense at all.
Proceeding down the south side of the castle hill (still just due east of Rua da Madalena), all bets are off as narrow, winding passageways of white stone carve through the Alfama district, named for the hot springs that served this formerly upper-class neighborhood — the city’s oldest — during the Moorish era. Above the cobblestones, flowers burst through the wrought-iron railings of prewar apartments (“prewar” in some cases meaning before the Crusades). Looming over the neighborhood since 1150, the Sé is an imposing cathedral that’s as much a fortress as a church. Inside, candles shadow the high walls and side altars, befitting the “dark ages” in which it was built, though the orderly lines belie the chaos of that era.
— Jeff Wallach
(Unheard Of)
Reverent Ale
Of six breweries in Belgium established within the cloistered walls of monastic communities, only the Abbey of Saint Sixtus in Westvleteren, about an hour and a half from Brussels, does not do any exporting. Since one fruit of the Trappist monks’ labors is Westvleteren 12, a strong, dark, complex, richly flavored drink that beer aficionados have christened perhaps the best ale in the world, a pilgrimage to the monastery door would be in order. But call first; the monks produce limited supplies of this nectar, and it’s sold only through advance orders. If you didn’t get a chance to reserve your order, just head across the street to In de Vrede Café, where the abbey’s three beers can be sampled by the glass. 011.32.70.21.0045; sintsixtus.be/eng/index2.html — Tom Bedell
Milan
Piazza and a Movie
Although not as well known as Sundance or Cannes, the Locarno International Film Festival, in the lakeside town of Locarno, Switzerland, 72 miles north of Milan’s Aeroporto Intercontinentale Malpensa, has something neither of those festivals can offer: outdoor screenings in a magnificent piazza surrounded by Renaissance houses. The Locarno fest, which celebrates its 60th anniversary this year, screens an international selection of short and feature-length films August 1–11. Contributors range from established directors to independent and student filmmakers. Capping it all off, the festival will present its Leopard of Honor award to Taiwanese new wave director Hou Hsiao-hsien. British director Ken Loach says of the venue, “Screening a film in the open air on Locarno’s Piazza is one of the most extraordinary experiences cinema has to offer.” pardo.ch — Roger Cox
Mazatlán
Casting Call
Although the name Mazatlán means “land of the deer,” the clear blue waters off the town’s coast are home to many of the most popular fish prized by sports anglers. With extraordinary big-game catches like marlin, sailfish, swordfish, mahi mahi, yellowfin tuna, bonito, and wahoo, this western Mexico destination, along the Gulf of California, provides some of the finest sportfishing in the world. Depart from Marina Mazatlán with Vikings Fleet Sport Fishing, which offers light-tackle and deep-sea fishing trips daily. The company’s intimate excursions, for up to six people, sail on cruisers that include 26-foot Super Pangas, 28-foot Bertrams, and 36-foot Uniflites. Full-day trips last eight hours while half days go for six, and the price includes crew, tackle, and fresh bait, plus the filleting and cleaning of your catch. Additional amenities, like a box lunch and drinks, can be bought onboard — if you need more than just fish. vikingsfleet.com — Erin La Rosa
Bali
School of Wok
t’s a modern-day misery that the term “working vacation” has even come into being. Then again, for some office types, a little action can be more relaxing than lying around all day. Whatever it takes for you to unwind, the Four Seasons Resort in Bali likely has it. Exotic and luxurious, the resort’s 147 thatched-roof villas overlook lovely Jimbaran Bay and offer amenities ranging from a gorgeous private beach to in-room spa treatments. But for fidgety guests who can’t sit still, let alone lie on the beach all day, the resort’s Cooking School teaches the tricks of the trade. Open five days a week, and with modules for novice and experienced cooks alike, the program guides guests as they prepare luscious Asian and Balinese lunches. It’s a well-informed way to taste the good life. fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay — John Patrick Pullen
Tucson
Star Treatment
Some hotels claim to go the extra mile for their guests, but what about another light year? For guests at the Loews Ventana Canyon Resort in Tucson, the sky, literally, is the limit. Thanks to the resort’s private observation deck, featuring a Celestron astronomical telescope, guests can view up to 40,000 galactic wonders with the help of the resort’s astronomer, who can pinpoint specific stars, constellations, and planets and is also available to lead couples on special stargazing night hikes. The stars aren’t the only things that shine at the Ventana Canyon Resort, though. The ornately furnished Ventana Room, Tucson’s only AAA five-diamond restaurant, looks out onto 300-year-old cacti and crystal waterfalls, not to mention two stellar 18-hole Tom Fazio signature PGA golf courses. loewshotels.com/en/hotels/ventana-canyon-resort/overview.aspx — Owen Baker
Chicago
CSI: Somewhere Else
Even if you’ve watched every episode of CSI, CSI: Miami, and CSI: NY, that doesn’t mean the police will let you cross the yellow tape and poke around in the evidence. But at CSI: The Experience, an exhibition at the Museum of Science and Industry in Chicago, visitors are welcome to explore gruesome murder scenes. The $2.4 million traveling exhibition invites CSI fanatics to get off the couch and hear autopsy results, match shell casings, and test blood in interactive state-of-the-art labs. Would-be sleuths are also encouraged to invoke their inner investigator, solving a crime in the re-created office of head CSI agent Gil Grissom. Museumgoers get to compare their results with those of expert crime scene investigators. It’s murder made fun. msichicago.org — Tami Swartz
London
London Bridge
A weekend of bridge in a posh hotel seems as good a reason as any to go to London (assuming you’re a bridge player, of course). The Hilton London Canary Wharf, which is celebrating its first anniversary this month, hosts regular Best of Bridge weekends, which attract as many as 90 participants who stay at the hotel and take part in the games. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, afternoon tea, and soft drinks in the playing area are included, and all bridge fees are covered as well. Players may opt to step away from the table every so often to check out the nearby Docklands shops and cafés. Or for just a brief respite, one of the cinnamon-infused specialty cocktails at the hotel’s aptly named Cinnamon Restaurant and Bar will do nicely. The next event is slated for November 23–25, so start polishing up your game now. hilton.co.uk/canarywharf — Nancy Bevilaqua
Providence
Light My Fire
When artist Barnaby Evans created WaterFire in 1994, it was intended as a one-time-only New Year’s Eve event. But his unique creation was so popular that it has become a regular attraction in Providence. The environmental art installation takes place roughly every two weeks between May and October, beginning at sunset and lasting until midnight. Nearly 100 bonfires float on platforms on the three rivers that pass through downtown. The peaceful entertainment is enhanced by world and ambient music piped through speakers hidden throughout the downtown area. In addition to the burning spectacle, street performers also entertain the thousands of spectators who show up along the riverbanks. Altogether, this public gathering is the perfect mix of hot and cool. waterfire.org — Martin Lieberman
Getting There: All the destinations covered in “Go Explore” can be reached by flying Continental Airlines. To book your vacation, contact Continental Airlines Vacations at covacations.com.
