Past Perfect
For the best antiques, steer clear of the beaten path
Longing for a cherry chest that was signed and dated 1769 by Salem cabinetmaker Nathaniel Gould, it dawned on me why antique hunting has reached epidemic proportions. Sure, the popular PBS program Antiques Roadshow has gotten people ripping through their attics searching for great-grandma’s Native American Kachina dolls. But when you’re talking with the owner of a Cape Cod antique shop about Colonial-era craftsmanship and you realize you’re looking at a piece of New England history that’s been passed down since Ben Franklin was around, that’s when the real excitement hits. I prefer 1940s clothing to 18th-century furniture, especially when Gould’s craftsmanship sells for upward of $18,000. But nothing makes the past come to life like browsing through an antique shop. Whatever you’re hunting for, be sure to leave the shop with the goods — as one store owner once told me, “You rarely regret buying an antique, but you always regret the ones you left behind.”
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Cape Cod, Mass.: Beginning about an hour’s drive south of Boston, signs for antique shops appear nearly every hundred yards on Route 6A. (More than 100 dealers are listed in the Cape Cod Directory.) Deciding where to stop can be daunting, but there are a few pearls in these oysters. Harden Studios (3264 Main St., Barnstable) is housed in a historic 1690s home. If you can take your eyes off the exposed chestnut and oak beams, you’ll find a collection of early Americana unparalleled on the Cape (like that Nathaniel Gould chest). Nearby, in the historic sea town of East Dennis, Webfoot Farm (136 Sea St.) offers an eclectic mix of antiques. Sterling silver flatware, unique pieces of furniture — like a fin de siècle partner’s desk with clawed feet — and Japanese sculpture have all been sold here.
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Richmond: With an abundance of European furniture, Thomas-Hines (3027 W. Cary St.) bills itself as the city’s largest antiques dealer, but there’s plenty to brag about in Richmond. At the southern end of the Museum District lie Cary Street and Carytown, a lively neighborhood packed full of great finds. Mariah Robinson (3455 W. Cary St.) has a good collection of antique china. If you’re looking for some old-fashioned fun, the circa-1928 Byrd Theatre plays foreign films and second-run flicks. And if you’re searching for that one unique item, like cornices or a stained glass window, continue on to the West End Antiques Mall (2004 Staples Mill Road), where more than 140 vendors sell their items.
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Sonora and Jamestown, Calif.: It was 1848 when two brothers from Mexico, Joe and Seamon Cabezut, struck gold in the Sierra Nevada, transforming quiet Sonora — about 100 miles southeast of Sacramento — into one of the wildest towns of the Gold Rush era. Now folks come to the region to scour the antique shops for their own gems in the rough. Antiques Etcetera (18 S. Washington St.) is a spacious shop filled with everything from vintage clothing dating to the 1880s to old sheet music. Antique Den (163 S. Washington St.) specializes in European furniture, enamelware from Hungary, elegant glassware, and antique trunks. A few miles away, Jamestown is home to the Emporium, a two-story building that’s occupied its spot since 1897. Inside, you’ll find antique silver, old toys, and a large selection of oak furniture and pottery.
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Buenos Aires: A flea market is not only an excellent way to spend a free morning in a foreign city, it also offers a rare glimpse into the local culture through its assorted bric-a-brac. Spend Sunday morning in Buenos Aires’ bustling San Telmo neighborhood, surrounded by 19th-century colonial houses, and you’ll find old bank notes, gramophones, and gaucho gear like spurs, whips, and lassos. High-end antiques dealers like Roberto Santostefano (1122 Defensa) are plentiful around the square, offering a bounty of 18th- and 19th-century English and French furniture. Many of these goods come from well-heeled locals who’ve sold off their European imports over the years.
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Brussels: Antique hunters know that Brussels (along with the rest of Belgium) is an oasis of goods from all over the world. Looking for African masks, English pottery, French art nouveau pieces, or Italian sculpture? You’ll find it all here. Start with the weekend antiques fair at Place du Grand Sablon for an assortment of silver trays, pottery, glassware, and African paraphernalia. Then half-step it down to Emery & Cie (27 rue de l’Hôpital), where you’ll be tempted to completely redecorate your house with the shop’s vast tile selection, wrought-iron four-poster beds, and chandeliers, all created by contemporary craftspeople using traditional techniques. For 20th-century furniture, stop by Philippe Lange (2a Place de la Justice) for rosewood tables, sinks, chairs, and shelves. If money is no object, set up an appointment with Tom and Sofia Desmet (16 rue Watteau) and be dazzled by a set of Louis XIV dining chairs or marble urns from Roman times.
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Atlanta: Scarlett O’Hara may be gone with the wind, but she left behind a wealth of memorable objects. Begin your tour of Georgian antiques at 2300 Peachtree Road. This complex is a treasure trove of Atlanta estate jewelry, furniture, and porcelain, housing three antique shops and three jewelry shops. Jane J. Marsden Antiques & Interiors (Suite A-102) has been in business for close to 40 years, selling English and Japanese Imari porcelain, continental furniture, and Chinese export porcelain. In the same building, Walker McIntyre Antiques (Suite B-101) features 18th- and 19th-century furniture and Chinese lamps. More furniture can be found at the spacious showroom of Regen-Leigh Antiques (3140 East Shadowlawn Ave.).
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Mobile: Founded by French settlers in 1702, Mobile, Ala., has undergone recent excavations that uncovered Chinese porcelain and silver coins that archaeologists believe came from trade with the Spanish. While most of these pieces will end up in museums, shoppers should look out for other French colonial antiques. Start in the town’s Historic Loop section, where Antiques at the Loop (2103 Airport Blvd.) features quality glassware, jewelry, and vintage linens. Also check out Atchison Imports (921 Dauphin St.), whose owners spend much of the year scouring the French, Belgian, and Dutch countrysides to bring back the best wares.
— Steve Jermanok
Getting There: All the destinations covered in “Go to Town” can be reached by flying Continental. To book your vacation, visit Continental Airlines Vacations at covacations.com.
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