Star Treatment
At the Capitol Grille in Nashville, the spotlight is on old favorites
Despite frequent visits from well-known personalities like Dolly Parton, Lionel Richie, and Jon Bon Jovi, Nashville’s Capitol Grille (231 Sixth Ave.; 615.345.7116) is no snooty celebrity hideaway. Led by Executive Chef Tyler Brown, the Grille’s staff works hard to maintain an atmosphere in which everyone feels welcome, regardless of how much tabloid coverage they receive.
According to Brown, a relaxed vibe is an integral part of the restaurant’s appeal. "To allow folks to have their privacy and feel comfortable here is part of the experience," he says.
Located inside the historic Hermitage Hotel, the Capitol Grille has long been held in high regard as a special-occasion restaurant. The dining room, with its elegant arches, was previously a private men’s club in the Hermitage. Patrons sit in plush red leather chairs at large, round tables, and poster-size black-and-white photographs of the state capitol building and the Parthenon hang on the dark walnut walls.
But Brown and his staff work hard to tone down the perception of pretentiousness that often accompanies fine dining, striving to make the Grille a comfortable regular stop for patrons. Brown believes his restaurant is the crown jewel of the city, and he's got the credentials to prove it. The Grille recently received a five-star rating from Mobil, making it the only restaurant in Tennessee to earn that distinction.
Of course, the recent flood of positive press could have something to do with the food. Brown's mother, a professional chef who studied in France, encouraged him to experience food in tandem with family gatherings. "It's interesting to see how people's emotions and reactions are tied to good meals," Brown observes. One of his favorite dishes, a filet mignon with mango orange chutney, is a holiday tradition in his family.
A longtime resident of Colorado, Brown moved to South Carolina in the 1980s. Dinners at friends' houses exposed him to traditional Southern favorites like collard greens, homemade macaroni and cheese, and grits. After stints at restaurants in North and South Carolina, Brown joined the Capitol Grille's team as chef de cuisine, opposite Executive Chef Sean Brock. After Brock left in 2006, Brown stepped in to fill his shoes.
Creating new twists on old favorites is one way Brown keeps his restaurant in the forefront of Nashville's lively dining scene. The Grille's menu highlights such local delicacies as Vidalia onion bisque. Even staid Southern favorites like the pimiento cheese sandwich come alive under Brown's touch; his version is served on brioche with fried green tomatoes.
Brown and his staff believe in pampering their guests through both food and service. They believe dining should be fun, with portions that are visually appealing, yet filling. It's not just locals who admire Chef Brown's attention to detail. Guests at the Grille have also included such culinary celebrities as Emeril Lagasse, who made a visit last year and left with high praise for Brown's efforts.
Not that Brown needs a lot of encouragement. Southern charm, good food, and good company are never in short supply at the Capitol Grille. "Our main focus is being aware of our guests' needs," Brown says. Even those not quite as famous as Dolly Parton.
— Gwyn Driskill
Five to Try
1
Margot Café and Bar. Margot's menu changes daily, but the foundation remains constant with six appetizer choices, six entrées, and five desserts. 1017 Woodland St., 615.227.4668; margotcafe.com
2
Watermark. This eatery serves contemporary regional cuisine, including Southern-influenced dishes like a grits soufflé. 507 12th Ave. S., 615.254.2000; watermark-restaurant.com
3
Midtown Café. The relaxed, friendly, unpretentious environment is as big a draw as the simple, rustic, Mediterranean-influenced menu. 90 Bedford St., 212.741.4695
4
Sperry's Restaurant. Prince William's Bleu-Cheese Stuffed Filet is a customer favorite. 5109 Harding Road; 615.353.0809; sperrys.com
5
Sunset Grill. This spot boasts a menu that features seafood, pasta, steak, and vegetarian dishes. 2001 Belcourt Ave., 615.386.3663; sunsetgrill.com — G.D.
(The Hungry Traveler)
Hot Dog!
Now that baseball is back, it's time to see how your favorite game-day snack measures up. Here are some franks that hit it out of the park:
Pink's Hot Dogs, 709 N. La Brea Blvd., Los Angeles, 323.931.4223. This family-owned stand opened in 1939 and serves up dogs until 3 a.m. on weekends. Jennifer Garner, James Caan, and Bill Cosby count on its 30-second delivery.
Pete's Famous Hot Dogs, 1925 2nd Ave. N., Birmingham, Ala., 205.252.2905. Pete's specializes in individualized toppings and serves everything from a mayonnaise dog to the Special, a beef topping thickened with cornstarch.
Nathan's Famous, 1310 Surf Ave., New York, 718.946.2202. In 1916, Polish immigrant Nathan Handwerker opened his eponymous hot dog stand on Coney Island, which is now home to the Nathan's Famous Fourth of July Hot Dog Eating Competition. — G.D.
FLY & BUY
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