Well Suited
For buying tailor-made menswear, these destinations are a cut above
Just as there are men who will cross an ocean to hear a performance of Wagner’s Ring or experience the Super Bowl, there are men who will fly the world to find the perfect suit. For those men, we offer this short list of cities with the sharpest lines, the most timeless looks, and the cleanest, simplest cuts.
1
London: A low, quiet street in London called Savile Row houses more celebrated tailors than any other road in the world. The dean of Savile Row, Henry Poole & Co., has been offering fully custom-made suits since the founder outfitted British forces to battle Napoleon. For all the tradition behind it, the Henry Poole cut, with its straight, natural, high armholes and form-fitted waist, is quite daring. It’s more James Bond (who, being fictional, never was a client) than Charles Dickens or Winston Churchill (who actually were). But because it is made for you, it’s as comfortable as a sweat suit. A custom-made (or locally, “bespoke”) suit takes at least two fittings, but loyal American customers routinely rendezvous with Poole’s representatives for fittings in New York, Washington, Houston, Chicago, San Francisco, Atlanta, and other U.S. cities. Here’s a tip: Start with a double-breasted worsted number, if only because it looks smart on nearly everyone — regardless of body type — and it’s something that’s almost impossible for off-the-rack suit makers to do correctly. henrypoole.com
2
Milan: A number of cities claim to be the world’s most stylish, but Milan needn’t concern itself with those imposters. Fashionable Milanese men (that is, all of them) have tossed their slouchy ’90s suits in favor of a Londonesque three-button model with double vents and flap pockets. A good place to find one is the Davide Cenci store, not far from the Duomo and Galleria. Based in Rome, the three-store chain offers suits under the house label starting at $1,650 and also sells other brands. Nothing is left to chance — every suit shows, in its choice of fabric and cut, how style arrives naturally when a maker is willing to sweat the details. davidecenci.com.
3
New York: America is about nothing if not business. Yet despite the lingering popularity of the sartorial oxymoron “business casual,” the signature look of corporate America remains the natural-shouldered, amply cut Madison Avenue suit. It has less sex appeal than the cuts of London or Milan, but if done correctly it conveys dependability and confidence. Ralph Lauren has turned New York style into an American idol with his Polo collection; Lauren’s flagship store is the former Rhinelander Mansion on Madison Avenue, where a basic Polo model starts at about $1,200. However, the 5th Avenue Club, on the sixth floor of Saks Fifth Avenue’s flagship store, provides the personal touch — men can lounge with sports books and sparkling water while manager David Chin and his staff pick from two other Ralph Lauren men’s collections (among other selections) for them. polo.com; saksfifthavenue.com
4
Boston: The American cut has suited New Englanders for generations, in no small part because of Louis Boston, which, with its chic restaurant and sophisticated ambience, is the gateway to men’s style for the region. America is never afraid of new influences from fashionistas abroad, and Louis Boston stocks Kiton and Brioni — two of the finest Italian off-the-rack lines. louisboston.com
5
Toronto: Harry Rosen started modestly in Toronto but now sets the pace for Canadian menswear with its own style magazine and locations across the country. Suits at its Bloor Street, Toronto, location range from bar mitzvah–ready to suave (Ermenegildo Zegna) to full bespoke (the latter starting at $3,400 Canadian). harryrosen.com
6
Paris: Perhaps because Paris is so well known for style but lacks a signature men’s cut, when Hermčs opened its made-to-measure department at its world flagship store in November, it introduced three distinct models, each capable of multiple variations, ranging from one to three buttons for single-breasted jackets, to a six-button double-breasted version. Its made-to-measure suits are not bespoke (the maker takes detailed measurements but works from a standard pattern, not a custom one). But for about $3,700, Hermčs, long a champion of customer service, gives more than enough personal care (and Italian hand stitching) to justify the investment. hermes.com
7
Hong Kong: A world away, tailoring happens more quickly. Hong Kong tailors have long been legendary for quick suits. But making a suit from scratch in 24 hours is a stunt. As in any other city in the world, the rule is: find a good tailor; partner with him on the cloth, cut, and details; and let him take his sweet time. Sam’s Tailor has served British royalty, American presidents, movie stars, and sports figures. Full bespoke and made-to-measure are both available, the latter starting at just $395. Tip: when buying any tailored clothing on the road, leave about $100 to $200 in the budget for further adjustments back home. samstailor.com
8
Edinburgh: For the man who longs to go native with a necktie on — or who just wants to show off his knees — there is Geoffrey (Tailor) of Edinburgh, where the house cut begins with square shoulders and ends in a kilt. Now if that man also has self-confidence and $1,100 to spare, he’s ready for tradition that makes a statement. geoffreykilts.co.uk
9
Los Angeles: In the way that the rules of physics break down as you near the speed of light, the rules of style that bind New York, London, Paris, and Milan no longer apply as you reach Los Angeles, where the sight of a man wearing a suit and tie after business hours can provoke questions. Suiting up against that mild tyranny of casual conformity is the ultimate test of manly self-confidence. In Beverly Hills, the Gianni Versace boutique sells the kind of cutting-edge suits (starting at $1,250) that are hits in the entertainment world but that, elsewhere, look best on trim men. Throw one on and let them all stare; they’re probably embarrassed that they didn’t recognize you for the star you are. versace.com
— Alan Behr
Getting There: All the destinations covered in “Go to Town” can be reached by flying Continental. To book your vacation, visit Continental Airlines Vacations at covacations.com.
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