DON’T ASK PANO KARATASSOS TO SEPARATE the concepts of heritage and cuisine. To the executive chef of Kyma (3085 Piedmont Road, 404.262.0702), an upscale Greek seafood restaurant in Atlanta, the two are one and the same. He recognized that when he began working in the kitchens of his father’s restaurants at age 16. But even before then, Karatassos knew cooking was in his blood.
“In the Greek culture, food is such a huge part of what we do,” the 35-year-old chef explains. “Between my mom and my grandmother, they were always cooking, every single day. And as far as my grandmother went, that was her passion. It was very easy to cling to that passion.”
A mid-1990s graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, Karatassos has spent time in the kitchens of some prestigious restaurants, including New York’s famed
Le Bernadin. With the opening of Kyma, in 2001, the chef finally had a venue to showcase authentic recipes, straight from the old country, freshened up with his own personal touch.
“I’m taking food that is very rustic in nature, sometimes a little heavy, and just lightening it up and putting a little twist on it,” Karatassos says. “But most importantly, [I’m] respecting the values of the Greek cuisine. And that’s something that, because of my heritage, I have a hard time not doing.”
Kyma, located in Atlanta’s Buckhead neighborhood, has earned accolades locally and nationally for Karatassos’ unique, un-Americanized take on Greek dining. But the proof, as they say, is in the pudding — or, in Kyma’s case, in the smoky flavor of the braised octopus, the tangy allure of the country salad accented with feta cheese, and the flaky-yet-moist texture of wood-grilled whole fish, flown in fresh from around the world. All are favorites on the regular dinner menu.
Diners enjoy these dishes on tables dressed in white cloth, against a backdrop of large white columns and starry lighting. They’re encouraged to dine in the traditional Greek fashion, sharing appetizers and entrées with companions, so that everyone tries as many items as possible.
“Eating this way is very exciting,” he says. “The staff’s going to introduce you to the food, they’re going to introduce you to Greek wine, we’re going to put these menus away, and you’re just going to have a good time.” Fulfilling his legacy, doing what he loves, Karatassos is having a pretty good time too.
— Deblina Chakraborty
»1. Einstein’s This trendy midtown bistro does weekend brunch (and daily lunch and dinner) in style, with dishes like Crab Cake Benedict that offer a fresh take on American cuisine. 1077 Juniper St., 404.876.7925
»2. City Grill Enjoy upscale Southern-style cuisine in this former bank building, a downtown landmark. 50 Hurt Plaza, 404.524.2489
»3. The Food Studio Dining is an art at this urban gem, where American cuisine is prepared with seasonal, mostly organic, ingredients. Located in West Atlanta’s historic King Plow Arts Center, it’s the perfect pre-theater dinner destination. 887 W. Marietta St., 404.815.6677
»4. Woodfire Grill Chef Michael Tuohy prepares Northern California–influenced seasonal dishes on a wood-fired grill in the center of this rustic neighborhood restaurant. 1782 Cheshire Bridge Road, 404.347.9055
»5. Tamarind Thai This family-run restaurant serves up fancy Thai food in a small but chic dining room. 80 14th St., 404.873.4888
— D.C.
