In the Rough
Nothing is subtle about a diamond: It is crystallized carbon cooked at at least 752 degrees, under 500,000 pounds of pressure per square inch, 100 miles below the surface of the earth. A young diamond could be 100 million years old; some are a billion years old.
Diamond is the hardest, clearest mineral in the world. The hardness makes it useful for industrial applications — especially cutting. But it’s the clarity that makes diamonds the brilliant, fiery kings of all precious gems. When cut properly, a diamond seems to ignite light, creating effulgent silver-white fires on the delicate fingers of brides and on the bare necks of the red-carpet set.
But like most major purchases, diamonds vary in quality. How do you make sure you’re getting a good one? Start with the four Cs — cut, color, clarity, and carat weight. These make up the grading system used by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).
In addition to the four Cs, says Gianluca Maina, vice president of marketing at famous diamond purveyor Harry Winston, you’ll want to look at the quality of the setting a diamond is placed in — scrutinizing both its engineering and its elegance. “Listen to your senses,” Maina says, “and buy from a jeweler you trust.”
Trends in Style
Diamonds don’t really go in and out of style, but types of diamonds do. Maina says the brilliant round diamond will always be the most popular because of its perfect proportions. But recently, pear-shaped and marquise diamonds (ovals with pointed ends, like a football) have become fashionable. Colored diamonds, called “fancies,” are also growing in popularity, particularly the fancy yellows, but Maina says classic white diamonds remain the most popular.
Hope Lives Here
Weighing in at 45.52 carats, the Hope Diamond (above) is the largest known deep-blue diamond. Its value: priceless. It is one of the most visited displays at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C. When Harry Winston donated the Hope, he sent it by registered mail.
Where to Buy
Most of the world’s largest cities have a diamond district. Here are a few starting points.
Los Angeles: Hill Street
London: Hatton Garden area
New York: 47th Street and 5th Avenue
Paris: Place Vendôme
How to Buy
The Four Cs
Cut
The GIA is now grading cuts, rating them excellent, very good, good, fair, and poor. Most fall into the good and very good category; excellent is unusual. But unless you have an eye for diamonds, it’s difficult to tell the difference between excellent and very good.
Color
Ranges from D to Z. Anything in the D-E-F range is colorless. Most engagement rings fall into G-H-I, which looks colorless.
Clarity
Most gemstones sold have some flaw, usually minor. Inclusions are rated according to this key:
V = very
S = slightly
I = included
For example, if a diamond is rated VVSI (very very slightly included), it includes a barely noticeable flaw.
Carat weight
The average engagement ring size has grown over time; today it’s 1.25 to 2.5 carats.
Did You Know?
While most diamonds are pale yellow to colorless, a few colored diamonds are found in a rainbow of hues, including brown, blue, green, orange, red, and black.
