Inland Paradise

The island of Kauai has at least one big reason to leave the
breathtaking Hawaiian coast: Waimea Canyon

Miguel "Micco" Godinez parks his large pickup truck on a steep, winding road in western Kauai. A refreshing, but brief, rain shower greets us as we step out of the vehicle. The cloud cover will be a blessing today, Micco says. We quickly scramble over a tall, roadside mound to a wide, flat trailhead. There, the Waimea Canyon unfolds before us. I feel my heart hiccup.

The immense Hawaiian amphitheater, carved by nature's most persistent forces — water and wind — is a stunning sight. The sheer, serrated hillsides, dappled with every shade of green imaginable, plunge some 2,500 feet from our perch to the Waimea River and to thicker forests beyond. We gaze down on patches of ethereal mist gliding between the canyon walls. Shadows from clouds overhead move along the canyon floor like restless spirits.

"How comfortable are you with elevation?" Micco asks.

"Going up or going down?" I reply.

"Both," he says with a wry smile.

With that, I resign myself to a strenuous but invigorating trek along the Kukui Trail into the ravine that was dubbed "the Grand Canyon of the Pacific" by Mark Twain. It's a fitting sobriquet. At 12 miles long, a mile wide, and almost 4,000 feet deep, Waimea Canyon is the largest canyon on any land in the Pacific. Statistics, however, don't begin to do justice to the visual splendor of the setting.

The canyon's precipitous, layered walls, which form the backbone of Kauai's emerald paradise, tell the stories of repeated volcanic eruptions and persistent rainfall. The island's centerpiece, Mount Wai'ale'ale, is generally regarded as the wettest place on earth. Due in part to a geologic oddity that left the 5,148-foot mountain shaped like a giant catcher's mitt, easterly trade winds flow into its side, surge up its flank, and cool to produce precipitation. The result is an average annual rainfall of more than 450 inches, and a series of glorious waterfalls.

The northern stretch of Waimea Canyon is protected by the Koke'e State Park, which encompasses 4,345 acres of land and features roughly 45 miles of trails that meander through the canyon and the nearby Alaka'i Swamp. The central section, in the Pu'u ka Pele Forest Reserve, comes under the oversight of the state's Division of Forestry and Wildlife, while the southernmost portion falls within the Mokihana Ridge Game Management Area. The western edge, encompassing Waimea Canyon Drive, is state park land. All of it is impressive.

I tighten my day pack, weighed down with 150 ounces of water, a few energy bars, and foul-weather gear (just in case), and begin the descent. Micco, hiking in Crocs, bounces along and suggests I vary my gait to avoid overtaxing any one muscle group. Already, it's clear I will be hard pressed to match his cadence.

Escape from the Coast

Earlier, at the new Ko'a Kea Hotel & Resort on Kauai's south shore, I awoke to a cool breeze and the sound of waves. I walked outside to the balcony, a cup of strong Kona coffee in hand. On the water, I could see surfers already bobbing on the swells. Within three hours, the beaches were bustling with sunbathers, all looking for sand and surf. This is the Hawaii most people are familiar with. Looking for a more tranquil experience, I decided to head inland, to Waimea Canyon.

Micco picked me up at Ko'a Kea shortly after 9 a.m., and we motored westward for the 45-minute drive to the canyon. Known as Hawaii's "Garden Island," Kauai is the oldest of the Hawaiian chain, with more than 550 square miles of land and 113 miles of shoreline, almost half of which are beach. Its rippled interior features mountains and valleys blanketed with an exotic mix of plant life. Many people believe Kauai has avoided overdevelopment primarily because there is no way to circumnavigate the island by vehicle.

Miguel "Micco" Godinez, owner of the Kayak Kaua'i adventure tour company

On our drive through Waimea, Micco pointed out the last active sugarcane plantation on the island, a vestige of an industry that once dominated Kauai (see "Island Exploration"). We rolled past a statue of Captain James Cook, the British explorer who, in 1778, stumbled upon the Hawaiian Islands on his way to Alaska, changing the course of the islands' history. Then we headed north on Koke'e Road, which leads to Waimea Canyon Drive and the canyon itself.

Several outposts along Waimea Canyon Drive offer exceptional vantage points for sightseers and shutterbugs. And there are numerous trails, including many along the northern rim of the canyon, that feature dizzying views. I wanted to go deep into the canyon itself, to experience varying perspectives that few tourists get to see. Micco was happy to oblige.

A Grueling Descent

Steep ridges abound along Kauai's Na Pali Coast

About a mile into our hike, my knees and lower back are beginning to feel the pitch. The Kukui Trail, along the southern border to the Pu'u ka Pele Forest Reserve, is as precipitous as advertised. At 6-foot-2, 225 pounds, I'm better suited for the flatlands, while Micco, shorter and lighter, is made for this kind of descent. An experienced guide and the owner of Kayak Kaua'i, Micco is joining me today at the request of a mutual friend. Due to park regulations, paid guides aren't permitted to work this trail, but for Micco, this is an ideal way to spend his day off. The 57-year-old Cuban immigrant, who first came to Kauai to surf in 1974, is clearly in his element in Kauai's backcountry.

Above the forest that covers the lower reaches of the canyon, the braying of a goat carries across the chasm. Micco quickly spies the animal as it inches along a steep, jagged hillside.

"Now you know why people call me Eagle Eye," Micco says, grinning. By the end of our descent, I'm calling him the Energizer bunny. Micco sets a crisp tempo, and I struggle to keep up. The switchbacks give way to a trail rutted by erosion and littered with lava rock. Micco's pace is unrelenting. More than once, I use the canyon's brilliant vistas as a convenient excuse to stop and catch my breath. Each time, Micco unveils another intriguing tidbit about the island, along with his perfunctory disclaimer: "You better look that up to be sure."

We pass through a variety of vegetation — from sturdy bamboo trees to giant spiked sisal hemp plants to utilitarian kukui trees (the nut of Hawaii's state tree produces oil used for candles, lotions, and cooking). Surprisingly, almost none of this flora is indigenous to the island. "In many ways, Hawaii is an environmental disaster," Micco tells me. "There were times, in the late 1800s, when massive trips were underwritten to bring in anything and everything. There were no checks and balances."

Scanning the beautiful, lush canyon, it's difficult to reconcile this transcendent panorama with the phrase "environmental disaster." Micco points out that many plant species were introduced with good intentions, but often with disastrous results. For example, the flat-topped African Albizia tree was imported as a windbreaker, a task it performs quite efficiently on its native continent. In arid climates, the tree drives its roots deep into the ground, and the wood grows solid. But on the rain-soaked island of Kauai, the Albizia tree, drunk on water, grows too quickly, with shallow roots, making it prone to toppling in moderate winds.

Likewise, scientists believe the only two mammals indigenous to Kauai are the Hawaiian hoary bat and the Hawaiian monk seal. Humans introduced everything else, from the cattle and mountain goats to the island's feral cats. Humans are also responsible for myriad bird species on Kauai, including the ubiquitous chickens and my personal favorite, the melodious laughing thrush. Micco tells me about a case of avian malaria, brought ashore by stowaway mosquitoes, that devastated much of the island's bird life below the 4,000-foot altitude.

Nowadays, the pendulum has swung a full 180 degrees, and customs agents at Hawaiian ports diligently check to make sure no foreign species are inadvertently imported to the islands. The greatest concern today, Micco says, is the brown tree snake, which found its way from the South Pacific to Guam in the 1940s and is believed to be responsible for wiping out much of the insect and bird life, creating the island's "silent forest."

In the thicker forest, some 1,800 feet below the trailhead, Micco and I spy more goats, though we're on the lookout for the wild boar that populate the inner island and are prized by local hunters. Near the Waimea River, the Kukui Trail intersects at the Wiliwili Camp with the Waimea Canyon Trail, a route for offroad vehicles that meanders eight miles north from the town of Waimea. The Wiliwili Camp, like all four that we'll pass on this hike, is fairly spartan. The only sound is the gurgling of the river as it courses toward the ocean. "The nice thing is you can't hear the helicopters here," Micco says.

Airborne tours are very popular in the canyon and throughout Kauai. It's easy to understand why: they offer an unequaled bird's-eye view of this natural gem. But the helicopters are loud, and though I consider them little more than a nuisance, the noise does detract from the pristine setting. I can see why they might offend a purist like Micco.

Slip Sliding Away

The Waimea River in Waimea Canyon

From the Wiliwili Camp, Micco and I head north, parallel to the Waimea River. The trail is undulating and narrow — and often slick. At one point Micco turns and steadies me. "Now, on this next section, if you slip, be sure to jump out into the middle of the river," he says. A moment later, I find myself on a 12-inch-wide ledge, about 25 feet above the river, nervously hugging the mossy rock wall beside me. Micco, about 10 yards in front of me, walks along without a worry.

Micco has slipped on a pair of tabis, felt-bottomed slippers designed for improved footing. They remind me of my fly-fishing boots, and I quickly develop a case of envy. A half-mile north of the Wiliwili campsite, we must ford the Waimea River to continue on the Koai'e Canyon Trail. The sure-footed Micco practically dances along the slippery rocks to the other side. I, on the other hand, am reduced to a four-legged posture, using my hands to stabilize my unsteady feet. Once across, my boots, now drenched, add another burden to my sojourn.

The views, however, make up for everything. Above us, majestic lava minarets rise from the riverbed, chiseled and worn. The canyon walls reveal contrasting sections of porous lava rock and hard-edged dike rock. Under a canopy of trees, we come across the remains of a terraced garden, possibly built thousands of years ago by the earliest islanders to grow taro, the plant used to make poi.

Micco explains that this fertile river valley was once a thriving community. "This is old Hawaii," he says, scanning the hand-built rock walls that look strikingly similar to the old New England style. "People haven't discovered this." Part of the reason, I suspect, is that these sights, while accessible, aren't easy to get to. They require effort, and there is risk involved. Micco recounts a tale of a young couple, experienced hikers both, who disappeared in the canyon's deep forest. "This place can just absorb people," he says. I'm glad I have a hiking companion with 35 years of guiding experience.

We pass the Hipalau Camp and follow the Koai'e Stream almost to the trail's end at Lonomea Camp. High above us, Micco points out the terminus of the Kohua Ridge Trail, and its stunning views from the canyon's eastern flanks. After a quick check of our watches, we head back toward camp, where we ford the Waimea a second time and make our way to the Wiliwili Camp.

More Work to Do

After a short siesta — what Micco likes to call "Latin meditation" — we prepare for the hike back up the canyon. I'm both eager to see the sights in the changing light of midafternoon and anxious about the effort. Micco soaks himself in the river to the point of "pleasant hypothermia." I should have followed his lead; the trek out from the canyon floor is a grind.

Thankfully, the gods watching over Waimea Canyon are smiling on me. A fairly consistent cloud cover keeps the hot sun at bay, especially when we break free of the forest at the canyon's floor. I'm sopping wet, not from the earlier rain squall or the river crossings, but from my own sweat. My drinking water is gone.

"We're almost there," Micco says repeatedly, cajoling me, but I know he's exaggerating. The switchbacks at the top of the trail are a constant tease, with each turn dashing my hopes that we've finished. Once we reach the trailhead, I take a breath and soak in the views one last time. I have a newfound respect for the canyon, one that goes well beyond what my sense of sight takes in.

Getting Lucky

Daniel Hale, a guide on the Na Pali Coast, swings on a rope at Kipu Falls, just off Kipu Road, about a mile from the ATV adventure headquarters

My calves cramp the moment I climb into the cab of Micco's truck. I'm spent. We motor north on Waimea Canyon Drive, stopping briefly along the way at various lookouts. Short on time, we pass by the ridge roads to the west that promise amazing views of the coastline, a futuristic-looking tracking station, and the Koke'e Lodge and Museum. Micco takes me straight to the two preeminent vistas on northwestern Kauai, from the Kalalau Lookout and the Pu'u o Kila Lookout. Neither disappoints.

As we reach the railing of the Kalalau Lookout, as if on cue, the skies part and the sun illuminates breathtaking views of the steep-walled ridges, or flutes, tumbling down to Kalalau Beach on the secluded Na Pali Coast — one of Micco's favorite kayaking spots. "Wow, you got lucky," he says. "We don't often get views this good."

I am awestruck, and continue to stare long after the clouds roll back in. Micco calls out to me from the truck. The light is fading, and he's hungry. I'm in no rush to leave, though. I may not feel the same sense of serenity that enveloped me deep in the Waimea Canyon, but on a cool summer evening, this setting is no less spectacular.

— Brion O'Connor

Getting There: Continental offers daily nonstop service to Honolulu from its hubs in Houston and New York/Newark.

WHERE TO STAY

The Ko'a Kea Hotel & Resort (koakea.com) on Poipu Beach, on Kauai's south shore, is a true "back to the future" destination. Hurricane Iniki destroyed the Poipu Beach Hotel in 1992, leaving only the lava rock skeleton of the structure. After a lengthy restoration, the owners, who refused to budge from the original beachfront location, finally reopened the resort this year. Wedged between two larger resorts, yet able to maintain a keen sense of privacy and quiet, the Ko'a Kea seamlessly combines old-school architecture and timeless elegance. Each of the 121 rooms is beautifully appointed, and the resort's Red Salt restaurant is top-notch. Hikers and other active vacationers, like surfers, will love the Ko'a Kea's spa.

OTHER INLAND ACTIVITIES

Sugarcane was once the economic engine that drove trade on Kauai. A great way to learn about the crop's history, and the island's, is a relaxing tubing tour with Kauai Backcountry Adventures (kauaibackcountry.com). These entertaining three-hour tours, open to children as young as 5, meander through the irrigation ditches of the former Lihue Plantation, once a thriving 17,000-acre sugarcane farm and now part of Steve Case's Grove Farm. The ditches and tunnels, built by workers in the sugarcane heyday of the 1860s and '70s, provided the 140 million gallons of water needed daily for the crop.

With its exceptional scenery, including waterfalls, dramatic mountains, and dense tropical forests, Kauai has long called to Hollywood producers. An all-terrain vehicle (ATV) tour with Kipu Ranch Adventures (kiputours.com) is a fun way to put yourself on the set of such movies as Jurassic Park, Raiders of the Lost Ark, Hook, and Six Days, Seven Nights. The sights found throughout this 4,000-acre cattle ranch, in the shadow of the Ha'upu Mountains, are striking, and the ATVs are cool to drive.

If ATV riding isn't enough to get your blood pumping, try ziplining. There's nothing quite as exhilarating as stepping off a platform into the wild blue yonder, soaring over verdant green valleys and sparkling rivers while supported by just a harness and carabiner. And you've got great choices on the island including Kauai Backcountry Adventures, Outfitters Kauai (outfitterskauai.com), Just Live (justlive.org), and Princeville Ranch Adventures (adventureskauai.com). Can you say adrenaline rush?

For more information on Waimea Canyon, visit the Na Ala Hele Trail & Access System's Web site, hawaiitrails.org, and click on Kauai. Or contact the State Forestry and Wildlife Division of the Department of Land and Natural Resources at 808.587.0166, or the Hawaii State Parks, a division of the DLNR, at 808.274.3444.

— B.O'C.