Sweet Life

Savor classic cocktails and Italian favorites mixed slowly at
Harry's Bar in Rome

Unlike fine whiskeys and wines, few bar rooms improve with age. A rare exception is Harry's Bar (Via Vittorio Veneto 150, 39.06.48.4643, harrysbar.it) in Rome, which continues to exude an old-world, low-key grace. The room's former centerpiece, a small, U-shaped, stand-up bar, has been replaced with one that's long and gracefully curved, finished off with a polished brass rail for leaning. The walls are paneled in light brown leather and sculpted warm woods the color of vintage Scotch. And head barman Pasquale Di Tosto still carries on the long-standing tradition of mixing cocktails slowly and skillfully, working at his own speed.

This Harry's Bar (no connection to Giuseppe Cipriani's famed Harry's Bar in Venice), gained notoriety for its location on the Via Veneto, the stylish promenade where Federico Fellini filmed much of La Dolce Vita ("the sweet life") almost 50 years ago. Many visitors think Harry's Bar starred in the film, but that's a myth. Still, life truly is sweet on a warm May night when you can sip drinks outside at a café table and take in the symphony of life.

Harry's interior has its own warm vibe, with a red Roman marble entrance, a 16th-century portrait hanging over the bar, 17th-century still-life paintings, plus small wall sconces and candles radiating golden mood lighting. Italians converse with each other at warp speed, and other languages fill the room as well, but the chatter doesn't drown out the singer and piano player who perform seven nights a week until 2 a.m.

Harry's old stand-up bar, with no stools, has been emulated in many European and some American saloons, the theory being you can move around easier and meet and talk with people instead of being anchored to a seat. But even with the addition of stools, traditions die hard — people still stand around the bar at Harry's. Frankly, I prefer front row center in this libational theater, watching Di Tosto making cocktails by hand — his serene, slow stirring of an ice-cold martini is an inspiring sight.

The signature drink at Harry's Bar in Rome is the Bellini. Originally created at Harry's Bar in Venice, it's a fusion of fresh peach juice and Prosecco served straight up (about $22). It's no surprise to find the Negroni, a delicious marriage of sweet vermouth, gin, and Campari, and another favorite among Harry's clientele ($18). The Negroni has stood the test of time, but for some odd reason, it's never caught on in the United States.

Italians of a certain vintage love their digestifs, and Fernet-Branca has been the after-meal, stomach-settling liqueur of choice for generations. It takes a strong belly to even sip this bitter concoction, but Di Tosto carries a mint-flavored Fernet-Branca, usually served straight or with Coca-Cola, for around $14.

Old-world Italian liqueurs like Strega and Galliano usually collect dust on the shelves in most American bars, but here they're mixed in cocktails that were popular 30 years ago and still known around the world, like the Golden Cadillac, a mixture of Galliano, crème de cacao, and fresh cream ($14). "Our guests are 50 percent Italians and 50 percent internationals, so nothing takes us by surprise," says Di Tosto, who recently had a request for three Bloody Caesars, a Canadian favorite that outside of North America might stymie the younger, less worldy bartender.

Harry's Bar has a diverse but short menu of cocktails with alluring names like the Cardinale, the Garibaldi, and the Bronx, along with old stand-bys such as the Americano, a gin fizz, and a dry gin martini for around $18. You can order Italian wines — pinot grigios, chardonnays, merlots, and Chiantis — by the glass. Harry's also carries a lineup of foreign bottled beers for around $13, and a half dozen sizable sandwiches ranging from smoked salmon ($15) to a double cheeseburger ($24).

Prices may seem wickedly stratospheric, but the value-added tax is included. The good news: the American greenback has been slowly gaining ground against the euro. Salute.

— Chris Barnett

The Wine Shop

This month, Continental Sommelier David Gordon recommends three certified biodynamic wines. Certification means the producers follow a strict method of organic farming and use a natural approach to winemaking.

Nicolas Joly Savennières Les Clos Sacrés, Loire, France 2005, $29.99
Joly is one of the leaders of the biodynamic movement. His entry-level white wine is made from chenin blanc grapes grown in the vineyards of Savennières. Like some red wines, it benefits from decanting for aeration, which allows its floral aromas and crisp, stone fruit flavors to shine.

Porter Creek Pinot Noir Estate, Russian River, California 2006, $29.99
Alex Davis fashions an elegant, age-worthy pinot noir from his family's hillside vineyards in the prime area of Sonoma's Russian River Valley. This silky pinot noir is balanced with cherry and mineral tones.

Les Aphillanthes, Côtes du Rhône, France 2007, $13.99
This traditional producer — a family-owned winery that has been farming biodynamically since 2003 — utilizes low yields to create an extraordinary value, especially in the 2007 vintage. This blend of grenache and syrah is medium-bodied, with kirsch, pepper, and black fruit flavors. —D.G.

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Photographs: Lorenzo Pesce