No reservations are taken at some of Manhattan's coolest “in” dining spots where cooking trends take their start. Long lines prevail; smart diners go early (6 p.m.) for what usually is fast seating.

1. Momofuku. 171 First Ave, East Village. Steamed pork buns, Momofuku ramen, kimchee stew, fresh oysters on the half shell. Experience David Chang's innovative Asian-influenced cuisine at what was his first Manhattan eatery. Under $100 for two.
2. Blue Ribbon Brasserie. 97 Sullivan St., SoHo. Eat where the chefs from many Manhattan restaurants hang out after their eateries' close; unpredictable new American cuisine, raw seafood, spicy catfish, a famous pupu platter. There may be lines even at midnight. Under $100 for two.
3. Rai Rai Ken. 214 E. 10th St., East Village. A 14-seat noodle bar serving up lip-smacking ramen for those times you want a more traditional bowl of noodles. $50 will feed a couple.
4. Una Pizza Napoletana . 349 E. 12th St., East Village. It's all about the dough at this temple of traditional pizza making. Toppings are used sparingly, as accents to a crust that makes dough — yes, dough — exciting. $100 will feed a couple.
5. Fatty Crab. 643 Hudson St., Meatpacking District. Call this Malaysian cuisine kicked up as high as the Manhattan skyline. Fatty Tea Sandwiches — pork belly with sambal aioli — are just $7! Under $100 for two.