Grab A Bite

Big chefs do big things — something that in Houston (as in all of Texas) comes with the territory

RDG. 1800 Post Oak Blvd., 713.840.1111, rdgbarannie.com. Times change — even for Café Annie, Houston's special-occasion restaurant for almost three decades. It's not only moving down the block, but becoming the less formal RDG (as in James Beard-lauded chef Robert Del Grande), a grillroom serving crab beignets, maple-cured quail, and rib-eye with smoked cheddar sauce. Along for the ride: the highly popular Bar Annie.

Chez Roux. 600 La Torretta Blvd., Montgomery, 936.448.3010, latorrettadellagoresortandspa.com. It's quite a hike — 1.5 hours from downtown Houston — to experience Texas' only Michelin starred chef Matthew Gray (from Scotland's Inverlochy Castle), but well worth it. Dine on cheese soufflé and Angus rib eye then stay for the night.

Haven. 2502 Algerian Way, havenhouston.com. Brennan's burned down during 2008's hurricane Ike and has yet to be reopened. Fortunately, its Houston-bred executive chef, Randy Evans, just opened his own place with a focus on homegrown produce. The green-certified restaurant serves whatever Evans fancies that day from area farms and his own garden. And Evans' canned mayhaw jelly or pickled green tomatoes are the ultimate takeout.

Bistro Alex. 800 West Sam Houston Parkway, 713.973.1600, hotelsorella-citycentre.com. As Houston awaits the return of 40-year-old Brennan's, its owner Alex Brennan-Martin holds court at Bistro Alex in the new Hotel Sorella. A regular hangout of the French-trained chef inspired this modern bistro, which serves traditional Brennan's Creole along with lighter fare. You'll find Brennan's in-house salami at the informal Café Rosé.

— Michele Meyer