Strip Steaks

After 10 years in Las Vegas, Charlie Palmer continues his winning streak

Ten years is a long time to be known as a pioneer, but a decade after becoming one of the first major East Coast chefs to open a restaurant in Las Vegas, Charlie Palmer can still take pride in his first-mover status. Of course, since his arrival, Sin City has emerged as one of America’s true foodie capitals, with everyone from France’s Guy Savoy and Joël Robuchon to David Burke and Charlie Trotter opening outposts in resorts on its famed Strip. But it was Palmer who first took a chance out west in 1999 with the simultaneous debut of two much-lauded restaurants — a branch of his Manhattan flagship Aureole in the Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino, and his first Charlie Palmer Steak, in the adjacent Four Seasons Hotel.

Charlie Palmer Steak (3960 Las Vegas Blvd. South, 702.632.5120) wasn’t originally intended to help mark the chef’s Vegas arrival. “Because of our great following at Aureole, we were developing Charlie Palmer Steak for New York,” Palmer recalls. “But opting for Vegas allowed us the chance to evolve the concept and create a steak house like a steak house should be.”

A decade on, Charlie Palmer Steak has a newly updated look, but its mission — to serve “progressive American cooking” — remains true to Palmer’s original vision. Cool and clubby, this is a classic steak house with a twist. In addition to hearty New York strips and ribeyes, there are options like Japanese wagyu beef and Kurobuta pork tenderloin as well as pastas, salads, and even sashimi. “We are using the absolute best products, but in a novel way — say, a tomato salad paired with caramelized watermelon or sweetbread-filled ravioli,” says Palmer, whose portfolio now includes more than a dozen restaurants across the United States. The idea, he adds, is to create “interesting taste combinations that make you say, ‘I want to eat that again.’”

Vegas holds a special pull for Palmer, who remains as devoted to his everyday diners as to the first-timers who stop in for the meal of a lifetime. In fact, much of Charlie Palmer Steak’s business comes from locals who favor the Four Seasons’ lower-key atmosphere and gambling-free environment. It’s not necessarily “cutting-edge,” Palmer concedes, but warm, modern, and inviting. “Our biggest compliment is how comfortable it feels,” he adds.

Ten years after first making his mark on Las Vegas, Palmer’s competition has never been more formidable. But as the chef who helped usher in the city’s culinary revolution, Palmer’s well-earned status as a leader of Vegas’ food movement is secure.

Getting There: Continental offers daily nonstop service to Las Vegas from its hubs in Houston, New York/Newark, and Cleveland.

Five to Try

1 Daniel Boulud Brasserie. 3131 Las Vegas Blvd. South, 702.770.3300. Chef Daniel Boulud’s Vegas brasserie is wooing fans with classic dishes like crispy duck confit. danielnyc.com/dbbrasserie

2 Japonais. 3400 Las Vegas Blvd. South, 702.792.7979. This Franco-Asian fusion haute spot is wowing diners with innovative signature dishes like spicy chicken with shiso. japonaislasvegas.com

3 Carnevino. 3325 Las Vegas Blvd. South, 702.789.4141. Mario Batali’s third Vegas restaurant celebrates fine meats and wines. Look for everything from a perfect steak tartar to meaty Italian-style pastas. carnevino.com

4 BLT Burger. 3400 Las Vegas Blvd. South, 702.792.7888. The Vegas branch of chef Laurent Tourondel’s hip BLT Burger features a complete range of patties — including beef, salmon, and lamb. bltburger.com

5 David Burke Las Vegas. 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South, 702.414.7111. Must-try dishes here range from mustard-crusted tuna teriyaki to pretzel-crusted crab cakes with mango and poppy seeds. davidburkelasvegas.net — D.K.

Good Time for Garbonzos

Considering the pasty, tasteless versions usually found on store shelves, it's no wonder hummus often gets a bad rap. But when properly prepared, the Middle Eastern chick pea spread is a light, creamy, and richly satisfying treat that also packs in a large dose of protein. And as versions at the following restaurants suggest, a haute hummus trend may just be around to corner.

Nanoosh, New York. 2012 Broadway, 212.362.7922, nanoosh.com. Located in the heart of the Upper West Side, Nanoosh is a labor of love from former jeweler Zwika Pres, who conceived it as a Mediterranean-style lounge. Nanoosh delivers some half-dozen varieties of hummus — along with fresh soups and grilled-meat wraps — in a contemporary setting of slate floors and sleek wooden communal tables. Long and slim, Nanoosh also is an affordable pit-stop pre- or post-performance at nearby Lincoln Center.

Aba Gil’s Organic Hummus, Tel Aviv. Yehudah Halevi 55, 972.3.566.3320. The name says it all at this tiny hole-in-the-wall spot, where warm, fresh, all-natural hummus is served “with love” by Gil Maoz, a holistic medicine practitioner who pairs his garbonzo spread with organic soups, salads, and whole-wheat pitas. Maoz also conducts pita-baking seminars — ask for details between bites.

Zahav, Philadelphia. (237 Saint James Place; 215.625.8800; zahavrestaurant.com) At this new restaurant, chef Michael Solomonov serves up the hummus of his Israeli youth — four different versions paired with Iraqi-style laffa bread, which is crisper and lighter than the conventional variety of pita. The hummus foul comes with warm fava beans; the Masbacha with warm chickpeas; and the Turkish hummus with butter and grilled garlic. — D.K.