The Guide to Sushi

Zen Palate

As recently as 25 years ago, sushi was considered an exotic, even obscure, delicacy. Today, an array of neatly packaged sushi is available in supermarkets and convenience stores, and Americans have embraced raw fish as part of a healthy lifestyle.

Even so, the etiquette of the sushi bar remains baffling for some. Veterans know what to do when offered a hot towel (wipe the hands, not the face), how to apply soy sauce (dip the fish, rather than the rice), how to order (beverages and kitchen-prepared food from the waitress, sushi and sashimi from the sushi chef), and whom to tip (compensate the waitress, but offer a drink to the sushi chef if you’re happy with his or her work).

Even if you’re an old hand at the sushi bar, there’s always more to know about this popular delicacy.

» 4,500,000
Pounds of fish sold daily in Tokyo’s Tsukiji market

» 16.5
Annual per capita consumption of fish in the United States, in pounds

» 154
Annual per capita consumption of fish in Japan, in pounds

» $173,600
Top price ever paid for a bluefin tuna, in Japan in 2001

» 191
Number of Michelin stars awarded to Tokyo restaurants in 2008, compared with 97 in Paris, 54 in New York, and 34 in San Francisco

Pickled ginger, or gari, is cured with vinegar, sugar, and salt. Munch on it between orders to clear your palate.

Wasabi, sometimes referred to as Japanese horseradish, is an avocado-colored spice used to liven up sushi and kick up the intensity of soy sauce. If you can find fresh wasabi, you’ll discover it to be more subtle and flavorful than the powdered — and usually imitation — variety.

Pickled Ginger and Wasabi

• Masa, New York: At what may be Manhattan’s most expensive restaurant, Chef Masa Takayama serves only omakase (a succession of small courses based on the best ingredients of the moment). The fish is flown in daily, and each of the restaurant’s 26 seats is reserved weeks in advance. 10 Columbus Circle, in the Time Warner Center; 212.823.9800

• Yoshi’s, San Francisco and Oakland: Executive Chef Shotaro “Sho” Kamio offers a blend of traditional sushi and inventive cooked dishes. Both locations feature jazz clubs, with top acts performing seven nights per week. 1330 Fillmore St., San Francisco, 415.655.5600; 510 Embarcadero West, Oakland, 510.238.9200

• Sushi-Teq, Boston: Munch on the Big Dig (eel, cucumber, asparagus, egg, avocado, and shrimp) while enjoying tequila, salsa music, and a stunning view of Boston Harbor. InterContinental Hotel, 510 Atlantic Ave.; 617.217.5150

» Nigiri: The most familiar form of sushi, this consists of a ball of vinegared rice, a dab of wasabi, and a slice of cooked or uncooked seafood; usually ordered by the piece or in pairs.

» Maki: Sheets of seaweed containing sushi rice and fillings of fish or vegetables, rolled in a bamboo mat and sliced into pieces. Variations include futomaki (large rolls filled with vegetables and egg) and uramaki (rolls with rice on the outside).

» Temaki: A hand roll made with a sheet of nori (a seaweed), rice, and fillings, rolled to resemble an ice cream cone.

» Oshizushi: A specialty of Osaka consisting of sushi pressed into a wooden mold, then turned out and sliced into squares.

» Chirashi: Layers of fish and vegetables artfully arranged over a bowl of sushi rice.

» Inari: Deep-fried pouches of tofu, filled with sushi rice.

» Sashimi: Slices of raw fish, presented without rice — usually (but not always) served as a starter.

Sushi doesn’t simply mean “raw fish” in Japanese. It’s “vinegared rice” with another addition (e.g., fish or vegetables). The basic procedure for cooking sushi rice involves washing short-grained rice in a colander, then steaming it. As the rice cools, the sushi chef blends it with a mixture of sugar, salt, and rice vinegar.

Tip: The rice should always be as fresh as the fish accompanying it.