Written in the Stars

Two award-winning chefs shine at
Le Lion d’Or

In an era of spotlight-seeking celebrity chefs, Gilles Dupont and Tommy Byrne did the unheard of: they quit their respective jobs at Michelin-starred Geneva establishments (Dupont was executive chef at Le Palace Hilton, and Byrne held that role at the Hotel InterContinental) and opened their own restaurant — together.

“People said it wouldn’t last,” Dupont recalls, laughing. “They don’t understand why we got together, but we got together because we are friends, you know? I call him my brother. We are two very good friends, and we joined to run a restaurant.”

On first meeting, the two chefs couldn’t seem more different. Dupont is from Annecy, a small village in France, just 50 kilometers from Geneva; Byrne was raised in Dublin. But that’s where the differences end. They’re both classically trained in the French style, which, besides technique, focuses on terroir, a respect for the ingredients and their origins.

Now, 12 years after it opened, Le Lion d’Or (Place Pierre-Gautier 5, 41.22.736.4432) is one of Geneva’s top gastronomic destinations. Located in the upscale village of Cologny, just five minutes from the city center, it overlooks the skyline and Lake Geneva. Its elegant, Zen-like interior complements the chefs’ globally influenced cuisine, which emphasizes fish and vegetables and is often paired with Swiss wines.

For example, the weekly tasting menu may offer a sampling of flavors from Mexico, Indonesia, and Italy: guacamole, tomato, and spring onion on a corn crisp; a satay of langoustines, served with a vegetable eggroll and marmalade of red pimento; and baby Sardinian lamb in a puff pastry.

“We don’t want to call it ‘nouvelle cuisine,’” Byrne says. “It’s a seasonal menu, and it’s cooking that responds to modern-day demands.”

Their food is not “fusion,” both chefs are quick to add. They sit down together each week to develop the menu, brainstorming new, creative ways to present what’s fresh. “Cooking is like music,” Byrne explains. “To play the violin, or sing, or play clarinet, you need incredible technique, and once the technique is achieved, you can go it alone.”

Depending on the season, the menu at Le Lion d’Or may include Atlantic lobster roasted in its shell and served with tomato consommé, spring onions, and coriander; or sea bass scented with essence of cinnamon leaves and served with potato mousse and tempura vegetables.

“Even simple things can be extraordinary,” says Byrne. “A baked potato or a slice of Parmigiano-Reggiano with a bit of olive oil. But the product has to be there. It’s a privilege to be a cook.”

And as for the Michelin stars? Le Lion d’Or received one after its first year in business. But Byrne says that it doesn’t really matter. “I always say the sky is full of stars. The stars here are my [customers].”

Getting There: Continental offers daily nonstop service to Geneva from its hub in
New York/Newark.

Five to Try

1

Le Grill, 19 Quai du Mont-Blanc, 41.22.908.9220. The Grand Kempinski’s newest restaurant serves reinterpreted French cuisine, such as the pâté pantin, a veal and duck pâté served with green tomato chutney, ginger, and lime.

2

Café des Negociants, 29 Rue de la Filature, 41.22.300.3130. Locals love Chef Thierry Minguez’s inventive brasserie-style menu, with offerings such as Spanish piquillos stuffed with tuna tapenade and balsamic-orange syrup.

3

Soupçon, 8 Place du Bourg-de-Four, 44.22.318.3737. The creative menu is divided into three sections: water, with seafood choices like cinnamon scallops; earth, with meat dishes like sesame quail; and vegetarian.

4

Chez Ma Cousine, 6 Place Bourg-de-Four, 41.22.310.9696. This simple, roast chicken–and–Provençal potatoes restaurant was such a hit with locals that the owners opened two more locations.

5

Café de Paris, 26 Rue de Mont-Blanc, 41.22.732.8450. Since 1930, this Geneva institution has offered only one menu: salad and steak frites served with a special butter sauce. — E.P.

Say Cheese

Fondue began as a way to use winter-hardened cheeses — once melted and mixed with wine, they make a yummy, creamy sauce. Over the centuries fondue has evolved into Switzerland’s signature cuisine. Sure, fondue pots conjure up images of ’70s parties, with bellbottoms and wide lapels. But make no mistake — the real thing is not made of polyester. Here are a few places to grab a fork, spear a hunk of bread, and submerge:

Geja’s Cafe, 30 W. Armitage Ave., Chicago, 773.281.9101. Creamy cheeses and soft classical guitar equal romance here, but for over-the-top fun, order up the Flaming Chocolate fondue, served with strawberries, apples, melon, banana, pineapple, pound cake, and marshmallows.

Simply Fondue, 2108 Greenville Ave., Dallas, 214.827.8878. It’s fondue with a Texas twist. Meats for dipping are available in spicy Cajun and Southwestern styles, and the selection of cheeses includes Monterey pepper jack, of course.

Les Armures, 1 Rue Puits-St.-Pierre, Geneva, 41.22.310.3442. A Geneva fondue institution, and one of the oldest restaurants in town, Les Armures is known as the go-to spot for melted cheese in a pleasant setting. — E.P.