Just Like Heaven

You’ll meet more than five people at this Geneva lounge

Going to heaven is more than a dream in Geneva. It’s the après-work rallying cry of the international set that works and lives in this stylish but orderly city perched on the River Rhône. In a town where French serves as the mother tongue, Heaven Lounge Bar and Restaurant (Rue Phillippe-Plantamour 25; 41.22.732.1022; heavenlounge.ch) is the libational oasis of choice for English-speakers.

The gate to Heaven is guarded by Frank Hennessy, the Irishman who owns the place, but its cuisine hails from warmer climes. The menu is laden with Mediterranean dishes, including some Italian. Décor is sparse, clean, retro Swedish modern, and much of the conversation is in English, though different accents fill the air.

“The Swiss do not have a bar culture like America,” contends Hennessey. “It’s more of a café culture, so we’re geared toward the expats and foreigners living in Geneva.” In fact, none of Switzerland’s legendary wines are served here. “Every café on every corner serves Swiss house wine. Not us.”

Americans who hang out here say this is the bar with the buzz in Geneva; it’s sexy and nonsmoking (the latter is especially important). Karen Olson, an interpreter who translates Russian, Italian, and French into English (and speaks Spanish and Portuguese “for fun in my free time”) describes Heaven as “simply awesome.”

“The reason I first came here is that Heaven is smoke free,” Olson adds. “It has a very clean style, good food, and a great wine selection, even without Swiss wines.” What is she drinking at the moment? “Hot chocolate.” Articulate and spirited herself, Olson says Geneva has become very cosmopolitan over the past 12 years or so. “With the United Nations headquarters here, 40 percent of the population is foreign nationals, and that makes for a really interesting cultural and linguistic mix,” she says.

Translated: Heaven is a great venue for conversation and cocktails. One creation that sends tongues wagging is the Metrosexual Martini, a shaker filled with Skyy berry-flavored vodka, Grand Marnier, cranberry juice, and fresh-squeezed lemon juice, strained into a tall crystal glass. Purists may scoff, but the subtle blend of berry, orange, cranberry, and lemon goes down as nicely as any icy gin or vodka. The jolt is the price: 16 Swiss francs (or 10 euros) — roughly $16 at the current exchange rate.

With its worldly clientele, Heaven habitués have eclectic tastes. A frequent request is the mojito, rooted in the tropics but dolled up a bit. Hennessey and his mixologists use the requisite rum, lime, fresh mint, and sugar but have been known to immerse lychees, raspberries, and blueberries in the shaker. A more homegrown favorite, the Moitié Moitié, combines Poire William and another pear liqueur. Again, the tariff for such delicious taste is pricey — but, at least in Heaven, there seems to be no shortcutting on quality.

While there are plenty of Yanks here, there are all sorts of other nationalities too, particularly in the restaurant, where there seems to be a business discussion or discreet deal going on in every corner. The crowd includes patrons from Australia, Britain, France (no surprise), Northern Europe, the Philippines, Bolivia, and the United Arab Emirates. Hennessey says the more reserved guests work for banks, hedge funds, the UN, the Red Cross, Unicef, investment brokers, and law firms.

Hennessey is tightlipped when asked about the notable and newsworthy that come in for a drink. “I’ve never seen any movie stars,” he says. “The Swiss president has been in but I can’t remember his name. The presidency is not a high-profile post in Switzerland.”

This month, Continental Sommelier David Gordon, who lends his award-winning expertise to New York’s Tribeca Grill and other restaurants, recommends three wines made using biodynamic farming practices; they are produced in a natural fashion, with no pesticides or additives.

Söllner Grüner Veltliner “Wogenrain,” Austria 2007 $15
This crisp, refreshing, high-acid wine made from Grüner Veltliner, Austria’s most popular white grape, has a hint of white pepper and lime in the finish. It will pair well with lighter seafood dishes.

Chandon de Brialles Savigny lès Beaune, Burgundy 2006 $38
In Burgundy, 2006 is a forward, fruity vintage. This ripe, soft, cherry-scented pinot noir with a touch of minerality, from the village of Savigny lès Beaune, is flexible enough to serve with fish and meat dishes.

Quintessa, Napa Valley 2004 $85
This full-bodied Bordeaux blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and cabernet franc is supple and elegant, packed with dark cherry and plum fruit, with soft but persistent tannin. It will match nicely with grilled beef or lamb dishes.