All Mixed Up

Chef Douglas Rodriguez — now of Ola in Miami — is generally credited with coining the term Nuevo Latino to describe Patria, the upscale restaurant he ran in New York City. In recent years, however, the term has been snapped up by a number of restaurants, and now the Big Apple, thanks to an ever-growing Hispanic population, readily boasts the flavors of mango, yucca, and black beans as well.

The recipes associated with Latin countries have long been the foundation for the menu of Cabana Nuevo Latino, a restaurant with five locations in New York City and Florida that opened its first location in Forest Hills, N.Y., in 1994. Glenn Frechter, the owner and executive chef, says he was inspired by the foods of his wife’s native Puerto Rico when creating the concept. It was just the flavor profile and vibe the classically trained French chef was looking for when he decided to open his own restaurant.

“It was more fun,” Frechter explains. “French is very serious and extremely labor intensive.” Another draw, he says, was the census data revealing a growing Hispanic population in the United States, which made it clear there would be a vibrant market for his cuisine. 

After opening under the name Cabana: Cuisine from Cuba to Aruba, Frechter eventually changed the moniker to better describe what he and his chefs had been doing all along: mixing the varied flavors of Latino cuisine with cooking techniques and flavors from a wealth of other countries. “The [clientele] changed to a Latin crowd over time,” says Frechter. “We were honored. I equated it to if you go into a Chinese restaurant and see a lot of Chinese people sitting there, the food is probably really good and authentic.”

At Cabana, Nuevo Latino describes a combination of new recipes amped up with traditional Latin flavors and traditional recipes that have been tweaked a bit. Frechter uses cooking techniques from other cultures (that’s where his French training comes in) and modern plating methods (think height) and is willing to change the ingredients. Cabana is “all mixed,” says Jesus Dorado (picture above), head chef of Cabana Seaport (89 South St., Manhattan, 212.406.1155), which, fittingly, looks out on the Statue of Liberty. “We mix every [culture].”

A meal at Cabana transports diners to an island vacation. Bright colors and neon abound, and at the Manhattan Seaport location, when warmer weather rolls in, huge windows usher in a calm breeze off the water.

“We figured people would be exposed to this stuff traveling on vacation,” says Frechter. “Jerk chicken in Jamaica, arroz con pollo in Puerto Rico — in the Dominican Republic they may have had chicharrón de pollo. That’s why we dubbed it Cabana. I wanted the place to feel like a beach [vacation].”

Getting There: Continental operates a full-service hub in the New York area at Newark Liberty International Airport. Continental offers nonstop service to 160 destinations worldwide from Newark.

1

Tailor. 525 Broome St., Manhattan, 212.334.5182. Go with a friend, order up several of chef Sam Mason’s playfully serious small plates (along with a few equally playful beverages from the cocktail menu), and share the wealth. The flavor combos will keep the conversation flowing.

2

Aquavit. 65 E. 55th St., Manhattan, 212.307.7311. Make a night of Aquavit. Rushing through chef Marcus Samuelsson’s Swedish dishes — some classic, some with a twist — would just be wrong.

3

Candle 79. 154 E. 79th St., Manhattan, 212.537.7179. Giving vegans a reason to dress up since 2003, Candle 79 makes even tofu seem elegant.

4

Boqueria. 53 W. 19th St., Manhattan, 212.255.4160. Salt cod has never been sexier. This modern tapas spot was a hit from the moment it opened.

5

Lucy of Gramercy. 35 E. 18th St., Manhattan, 212.475.5829. Miami’s loss of chef Carmen Gonzalez is New York’s gain. And — lucky you — she brought the vibrant flavors of her native Puerto Rico with her.

Turn that custardy goodness upside down with some modern takes on flan, a classic sweet treat from Spain (and Cuba, and Mexico, and — well, you see where we’re going).

Ola, Miami. No discussion of Nuevo Latino delights would be complete without a mention of chef Douglas Rodriguez, the guy who got it all started in New York at his restaurant Patria. Now Rodriguez is in Miami, cooking up an unparalleled cream cheese flan served with a mixed-berry salad. 1745 James Ave., 305.695.9125

Michael Smith, Kansas City. Nobody can resist the lure of flan. That’s why it earned a place on the menu of James Beard award–winning chef Michael Smith, whose training was actually in French cuisine. His take on the sweet delight: a twin dish with passion fruit and coconut, served with a pineapple compote. 1900 Main St., 816.842.2202.

Joseph’s Table, Taos, N.M. Flan takes a sweeter turn at Joseph’s Table, 2.5 hours from Albuquerque. The caramel is made with goat’s milk, and the custard includes maple syrup instead of sugar, giving the dish a deeper tan color. 108A South Taos Plaza, 575.751.4512.