Good to Great
Michael Mina’s Stonehill Tavern exceeds all expectations
To be good in Orange County, you’ve actually got to be great. By all accounts, including that of no-nonsense Los Angeles Times restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila, Stonehill Tavern (St. Regis Resort, 1 Monarch Beach Resort, Dana Point, Calif., 949.234.3318) is a star. In fact, Virbila gave it three stars out of four, calling it “a kind of miracle.”
She’s not alone. The co-chairman of the annual Great Chefs of Orange County charity event, liquor attorney and restaurant guru Michael Cho, says “Stonehill Tavern hits it on all eight cylinders: beautiful ambience, great location, impeccable service, and outstanding food. It really suits Orange County.”
The culinary wizard behind Stonehill is celebrated chef Michael Mina, who was selected 2005 Chef of the Year by the magazines Bon Appétit and San Francisco and is the force behind major restaurant successes in San Francisco, Las Vegas, and now Orange County. Stonehill appetizers spotlight Mina’s signature main theme–and–variations approach, with seasonal ingredients figuring prominently. Themes like Maine lobster, Liberty Farms duck, tuna, sea scallops, or greens feature in three separate presentations or are joined together in a tasting trio. For example, lobster is offered in carpaccio, fritters, and a bisque. “The idea is to keep people’sinterest the whole way through their dish,” Mina says.
Entrées score high at Stonehill too, with choices like Berkshire pig — heirloom pork partnered with Fuji apple, wild arugula, and truffle sauce — or Tasmanian ocean trout adorned with cauliflower puree, peeled muscat grapes, and caper relish. Lower-key tavern fare includes shellfish stew and the American Kobe burger. Finish with a root beer float or a butterscotch pudding duet.
Mina describes Stonehill as “a sleek, modern American tavern” with casual chic surroundings and good energy. It’s carefully designed with comfort in mind, for those who want to be seen: this is the O.C., after all. Mina’s personal favorite dish? “The whole-fried organic chicken — I could eat it three times a week. Really crispy, cooked to order on the bone.”
What makes Stonehill Tavern so special? Without missing a beat, Mina replies, “It’s a perfect complement to Orange County. It makes me feel good when people say, ‘Finally, we don’t have to drive to Los Angeles anymore.’”
— Stephanie Stephens
Five to Try
1
Bluefin Fine Japanese Cuisine by Chef Abe, Newport Beach
King crab tempura, shark fin flan, and artistic raw-food creations like bluefin tuna sashimi salad and sushi served Omakase-style — chef’s choice. 7952 E. Pacific Coast Highway, 949.715.7373.
2
Bella Napoli, Dana Point
Sizable portions of the best Italian food, with bruschetta or calamari to start, insalata grande next, then fork-twirling pastas, thin or deep-dish pizzas, or eggplant. Family-style and low priced. 34212 Pacific Coast Highway, 949.496.0009.
3
La Fondue, San Juan Capistrano
Fifty scrumptious fondues make for fun-to-share food of the highest caliber, served in a jaw-dropping, one-of-a-kind interior where you dip desserts too. 31761 Camino Capistrano, 949.240.0300.
4
Las Golondrinas, five O.C. locations Mexican food devotees devour superb burritos and tamales and spoon super-cheesy chiles rellenos, all at bargain prices. Original location: 27124 Paseo Espada, #803, San Juan Capistrano, 949.240.3440; also in Laguna Niguel, Capistrano Beach, San Clemente, and Mission Viejo.
5
Studio, Laguna Beach: Don’t miss chef James Boyce’s remarkable, beautifully presented modern French cuisine with California influences. Studio uses fresh artisanal ingredients and features an incredible view. 30801 South Coast Highway, 949.715.6420. — S.S.
(The Hungry Traveler)
It’s Hot: Chocolate
When it’s cold outside, warm up on the inside with these people-pleasing hot chocolates:
Hazie’s, Steamboat Springs, Colo. At the top of the Steamboat Gondola, get to the bottom of a mug of the Mocha Kiss, concocted with love and Ghirardelli hot chocolate. It’s steamed with Starbucks coffee liqueur, stirred with a candy cane, and topped with grated chocolate. 2305 Mount Werner Circle. 970.871.5150.
Moonstruck Chocolate Company, Portland, Ore. These guys are serious about hot chocolate, with seven different types, including Mexican (with cinnamon and almond), chocolate chai, peppermint patty, and the basic Moonstruck Cocoa. All come decorated with a luscious medallion of handcrafted,
artisanal Moonstruck chocolate. 608 SW Alder St., 503.241.0955; and 526 NW 23rd Ave., 503.542.3400. (The Portland-based company has other stores across the United States.)
Payard Patisserie & Bistro, New York. How do you say “rich”? Hot chocolate here is sweet and sweeter, silky, and oh-so devilishly luscious in flavor. Manhattanites drink it year-round and die-hard regulars down it for breakfast. 1032 Lexington Ave. (at 73rd St.), 212.717.5252. — S.S.
